OT - Silky Hayauchi 16' pole saw review

Re: OT - Silky Hayauchi 16' pole saw review

frank morgan

Thats over $300 on Amazon?

General question about pole saw use

Larry Barrett

When I use a pole saw to saw off a limb several feet overhead the limb will start to bend as the cut is nearly through, and then, more often than not, the limb will drop straight down, still attached to the tree and the saw will bind in the cut. I find it difficult to free the saw since it is rather flexible. Can't push it or pull it out. Sometimes I even have to get a ladder out and climb up to free the saw.

Besides being watchful as the saw nears the bottom of the cut, lifting the saw and making very gentle strokes to avoid binding, does anyone have a better way to address this problem?

Re: OT - Silky Hayauchi 16' pole saw review

JL

$242. I got the 16’ saw, not the 21’.

Re: General question about pole saw use

Dale Stansbery

The higher I cut, the more of the problem you describe that I encounter. I under cut a little first, then cut down. It's not foolproof, but it helps.

Re: General question about pole saw use

Dale Stansbery

Oops, thought we were talking power. A straight pole saw would be a little harder to undercut with.

Silky rules the World of Handsaws!

Tom Dunlap

Silky is the Standard that the rest are measured by

The pole saws I use are the oval cross section with yellow handles. Both are sooooo handy!

The big one, Sugoi I think??? Extends to 20’ plus! Saves a lot of climbing. The blades are thick and the teeth aggressive.

Here’s the solution for pinched cuts

Undercut or multi cut

Make a cut up from the bottom. Make the top cut EXACTLY on top...no offset. The kerf cut on the bottom performs the same function as a face cut when felling a vertical trunk

Don’t make your first cut at the branch collar. Cut off the branch in segments. Maybe brush first. Then cut off the long woody section Leave a short stub. Then cut off the stub

A trick that a lot of arborists don’t even know can be used to get a pinched saw free...most of the time anyway. LOL. Hold the pole saw up the smack the butt of the saw. Think of a punch not a twist. Still stuck? Throw a weighted end of some parachute cord over the brush to pull the brush down a little

If you are looking through the Silky catalog you might see a shiny j hook that bolts onto the head. I had the opportunity to suggest a rework of the hook design as well as the lifting thumb on the top Fun to see my ideas used!

Re: OT - Silky Hayauchi 16' pole saw review

Mark Nowicki

I have the Silky 21' Hayauchi model, which I have been using to thin out a mature maple and removing dead ash branches dating back to the Quebec ice storm of 99.

I am glad I got the long model. At full extension, with my arms at a comfortable angle I can reach and cut branches 21 feet high without tiring.

Short, fast pulls cause the pole to flex excessively and the blade to jump out of the kerf, so slow and easy is my method with the weight of the saw applying the needed pressure.

The saw and pole weight about 7.2 lbs.

I cut branches off in sections when undercutting is difficult higher , leaving a stub of between 12 and 24 inches depending on the diameter of the branch. At all times I try to prevent damage to the branch collar.

The saw, even at full extension, gives very good feedback, I can feel when the blade reaches the end of the cut which allows me make the final cut a full pull cutting though the remainder preventing the bark from tearing.

I clean the blades with LeeValley cleaner and resin remover and an old toothbrush and wipe on FluidFilm rust inhibitor.

When handling the blade I wear ANSI4 rated gloves AND arm protectors. Those teeth can do terrible damage to skin and flesh.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TvK79LfWaprLiTRy9

Re: OT - Silky Hayauchi 16' pole saw review

William Duffield

I've heard it claimed that even a dull Silky saw still cuts better than any other saw on the market.

I'd still like to try to sharpen mine before I bite the bullet and order a new blade.

Can anyone recommend a diamond feather file that works well on hardened Silky teeth?

I've been trying to use a pole pruner that I borrowed from a friend on some of my dead branches. However, someone thought it was a good idea to equip it with a southern yellow pine pole instead of hollow aluminum. It's so heavy I can barely maneuver it. Time to return it and look for a new one.

Re: General question about pole saw use

William Duffield

The blade on my pole saw has three holes for the alignment pin in addition to the attachment hole for the bolt and wing nut. It is therefore adjustable for a straight cut in line with the pole, or for a top cut at about 45° forward, or for a bottom cut, about 45° back. Adjust the blade back, make a bottom cut a little less than half way through, adjust the blade forward, make a top cut a little farther out on the branch, adjust the blade again to the straight ahead position, and cut off the stump back at the collar. There is lots of internet help for appropriate dimensions depending on the size of the branch and type of tree.

Re: OT - Silky Hayauchi 16' pole saw review

Mark Nowicki



Looks better every time I watch it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCP63PXSzJU

Sharpening

Tom Dunlap

Some can be sharpened. The video explains how to find out which are.

The consensus in the arbo world is that it isn't worth the effort unless the sharpener has a proper understanding of cutting edges. Add to that, understanding the tri-cut tooth..whew!

My brother has ordered new blades directly from vendors in Japan to save money but not time.

Re: OT - Silky Hayauchi 16' pole saw review

William Duffield

Thanks, Mark. Both informative and entertaining. I found out my Silky is sharpenable (not impulse hardened), so the tool steel feather file I already have should work, and I won't need to go find a diamond feather file.