Edge Banding Plywood Cabinet Fronts

Re: Edge Banding Plywood Cabinet Fronts

David Yoho

The reason the edge banding is slightly wider is it makes it easier to lay on and cover both edges and then you trim away the excess by any number of methods.

The issue I see with edge band veneer is it's usually joined (similar to finger joints in pine moldings) along its length. These splices can be seen under a finish and look unsightly in finished work.

Would ripping thicker strips of hardwood (like 1/8" birch) and creating a much thicker edge band better protect the plywood?

That's what I would do but not for moisture protection but for looks and protects the edge better. Veneer edge banding can come off or peel over time, especially where constant contact from hands happens.

Re: Edge Banding Plywood Cabinet Fronts

Barry Irby

The edge banding is slightly wider than the door stock because it's difficult to apply it perfectly. It gives you a little wiggle room. There are at least three or four ways to trim it to perfection. You can use a file, a block with sand paper, a router with a flush trim bit (several profiles available) or a little trimmer with a blade in it.

The last one may be the fastest but may give you trouble fighting grain direction. It works well with melamine where there is no grain.

It's been many years since I applied any so take my advice with a grain of salt.

I am not sure edge banding will seal the edge ply any better than an excellent finish. In fact it may introduce the additional problem of keeping the edge banding attached. I might be inclined to seal the edges extremely well and skip all the edge banding work and expense.

You'll need a 35mm bit for the hinge

T edging

Yonak

I'm a fan of T edging. Similar to what you suggested and David seconded and with an anchoring fin which helps to center and hold it in place. I would make it 1/4", both edge and tongue. Fairly easy to make on a table saw (or router table if you're more comfortable with that) and jointer. You can round or chamfer the corners before removing for the T or after installation. I always do it after "just in case". The slots can, likewise, be cut on the table saw or router table.

Re: Edge Banding Plywood Cabinet Fronts

Keith Newton

Will If you use the iron on edge band, here is a handy tool that you press together as you run it down the edge of the plywood. It cuts it flush, as well as cuts a small chamfer on both sides at once. Follow that with a lite sanding, and it looks great.

However as others have pointed out, it is easy to damage, or just come off on it's own, especially if the edge it too porous or rough. I usually glue and staple or brad 1/4" solid wood edging on my projects.

Re: Edge Banding Plywood Cabinet Fronts

Pete in Holland MI

Thing's I've learned about edge banding:

1) The hot melt on the banding is at it's most molten state when pressing with your wife's iron. You need to progress slowly with the iron, but immediately follow behind the iron with a block of wood to continue adding pressure as the hot melt cools, else loose edges can occur.

2) After the banding is secured, lightly pull your finger up along the edge of the overhanging banding, listening for a loose edge. Heat and press to re-secure.

3) Your cut edge of the plywood must be cut pretty smooth and square. Don't try to sand imprefections out. You need a good flat and relatively smooth cut edge for the banding to secure to. A good carbide blade will be fine.

4) Banding does have finger joints every 8' or so. They are needed because saw logs are generally around 8' long. To make a joint-less band, you'd need a perfect veneer log as long as the banding in your package. If they offend you, cut those out as you measure to length.

5) I have one of those double knife trimmers and not impressed with it. I take a fresh Stanley Knife, lay the bevel of the knife on the surface of the plywood, and slowly slice off the excess.

Using these guidelines, I've had pretty good luck with banding on my projects.

Good luck !

Re: Edge Banding Plywood Cabinet Fronts

Walt

1/4" solid wood edging held in place with 23 ga. pin nails "until the glue dries" gets my vote. Make it slightly oversize, sand or flush trim with a router then create a slight roundover. I've heard of people making the edge trim piece wider to look more like solid wood. There are edge banding router bit sets sold that create complimentary profiles on the ply and solid edging material. That seems like an interesting idea but has a reputation for being fussy to setup I believe.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_edgeband_ogee.html#edge_banding_anchor