Need maple "veneer"

Re: Need maple "veneer"

Craig

I have purchased some veneer from Oakwood Veneer in the past. Note I have no affiliation with Oakwood Veneer, just a customer. I see on their sight they list the thickness of their veneers: https://www.oakwoodveneer.com/wood-veneer-thickness-thin-sheets-backers.html

The last section Wood on Wood Backed Veneer has some that are listed as 5.8/100" (or 0.0576" - this is close to 1/18").

Certainly Wood  *LINK*


https://www.certainlywood.com/results-woodmenu.php?name=MAPLE&menu=1/16%20in.

Couple things

Ellis Walentine

No help here, although you might call Certainly Wood in Buffalo to see if they have any leads for you.

There is a potential downside to using sliced or peeled veneer, depending on the thickness and species. When veneer is sliced, the inner face of the peeled sheet is called the "open" face, and is prone to checks caused by the levering of the wood from the blank. Even if these checks aren't evident, they can appear later. And, if you're thinking of bookmatching, this is where the contrast between the open and closed faces is most evident. Sawn veneers are expressly preferable for this reason.

The wood-backed veneer mentioned above will have a much thinner layer of the face veneer and will be very unforgiving of any sanding you plan to do.

Ellis

Re: Need maple "veneer"

jessecloud

Certainlywood routinely stocks 1/16 veneers. Check their website or give them a call.

I used that product a few times when I was doing bent laminations and too lazy to make my own.

Re: Need maple "veneer"

Keith Newton

Paul, Certainly Wood is my favorite source too. I'm wondering if this is what your planning to use on the bend that you ask about recently?

If you phone CW, I would tell them what your doing, and ask if they have any damaged flitches or short end cuts that they could make you a sweet deal on for the laminated bends since you don't need long lengths. For that matter I would try finding and contacting some of the companies that splice veneers for plywood and door skins. They probably would be much more likely to have scraps or end-cuts from longer flitches than they needed for past projects.

Re: Need maple "veneer" *LINK*

Hank Knight

Paul, if you need small quantities, you might give Matt Furjanik at Inlay Banding a call. He has many varieties of thin woods/thick veneers on hand and may be able to meet your needs. I've bought several pieces of thick veneer (up to 1/16") from him for inlay purposes. He's a nice guy, helpful and easy to deal with.


Inlay Banding

Re: Need maple "veneer"

Paul Woolson

Yessir! Same project. Keeping it close to the vest until it’s successfully finished. But I’m happy to show it off at that point.

Re: Couple things

Paul Woolson

Thanks Ellis,

I should have been more clear. Yes, thinly sliced lumber is what I’m after rather than veneer cut. It will be on edge and inlaid so in reality it probably doesn’t much matter.

Re: Need maple "veneer"

Paul Woolson

Thanks for the lead!

Re: Need maple "veneer"

Paul Woolson

Thank you!

Re: Need maple "veneer"

Keith Newton

Well, If you are going to use this thickness around the bent sides, maybe as a diamond pattern, your making it harder than it should be. Each of those small parts will be trying to straighten back out, and in those short lengths even if glued to another ply first is going to be tough to keep down. Anytime your bending wood, its hard to bend all the way to the end. I think the rule is eight times the thickness from each end will be best left straight. Now after a steam bend, when the new memory is achieved and dried back out, you can cut right up to or even in the curve without springback. However laminated bends still have a problem since each and every ply still retain the memory from being straight. With enough thin plys this isn't much of a problem, but the thicker and fewer the plys, the more of and issue it becomes.

I don't know why so many woodworkers resist using the standard thickness veneers when it all looks the same from the surface.

Back to your request for the 1/16' though. Whenever I need some plys for a lamination, I have a Woodmizer that I can cut them straight and easily, but I do like the faces even cleaner, so while I'm sawing, I use my power plane to dress one face, then saw oversize and run it through my small thickness planer with a piece of melamine for the sub-base. Still the planer will eat the whole ply if you don't take a block plane or sander to feather the front edge down thiner so the front end will pass under the knives and be captured by the outfeed rollers before the knives start cutting. And I lift both in front and behind high inducing some bend to keep the thin stuff down since the knives are lifting as they cut.

Ellis posted about marking with a triangle on parts to indicate how they go together. This is a really good way to get a laminated bend back together in sequence, which will make a laminated bend nearly invisible, especially if the glueline edge is rift or QS. However if you use a plain sawn face on the glueline edge, you'll probably be sorry, because even perfectly tight glue lines are accentuated by broad annual rings broken into little segments or steps.