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OT Garage floor painting

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OT Garage floor painting

#1

OT Garage floor painting

Mike L

Howdy all. The end of March a very large Red Oak tree decided I needed a new garage roof and trusses etc. The tree was 30 inches at the base and rotted in the center like most Red Oaks here. Anyway after replacing all the trusses on garage, and roofing on the house and garage, now we are at the interior. Sheetrock should be done Friday. I have this weekend and a few days next week to paint the floor. The garage is 30 by 40 so 1200 sqft. I was looking at Seal Krete single part epoxy paint.

I know I have to use a good concrete etch, but should I put a water barrier paint down first? Anybody used this product with feedback?

The tree was big enough to take out 10 of the 13 trusses. I have a room above the garage that saved all my tools etc. The floor was sheeth with 1 inch thick ply and that kept the trusses from caving in. I had them replaced with 16 inch on center to make it stronger.

Re: OT Garage floor painting

#2

Re: OT Garage floor painting

David Weaver

FIL used a one-part "epoxy paint", which seemed to me just to be a more flashy acrylic paint (perhaps with something mixed in it that should wear less fast).

The reason that he used it was probably the same as most would say - it was a fraction of a true epoxy floor covering.

He babied it and still had some issues where it came up with long term tire contact or adhesion from something sitting on it and moving, but overall it looked good.

Based on what I saw in his garage, I'd say if you're comfortable with the fact that it's going to behave more like paint than epoxy, but should be better than just "regular paint", go for it. If you want something that will adhere and wear like epoxy, you'll have to get something that's actually epoxy.

Bill could probably view the SDS for that product and say if it's what I suspect it is - a higher wear acrylic finish, or better said "just" an acrylic finish with some kind of wear fill in it (which you'd expect to wear better than paint, anyway) and not really anything at all to do with epoxy other than perhaps using the resin as a filler.

(My FIL babies everything he has. After painting the floor, he religiously washed out any dirt to keep it from being scratched and in general dirt wasn't allowed. If a car was driven in rain or snow, it wasn't allowed in the garage until everything was dried or melted off. If it was dirty, no garage until clean. The lawn equipment and other items in the garage eventually made their way out because they were a threat to the floor, and he built a shed for them. It became a running gag that wife doesn't like much, but I don't know what a garage may be to you - just pointing out that it'll be hard to make the floor much less susceptible to damage than FIL did unless you put astroturf down over the floor to protect it :) ).

Re: OT Garage floor painting

#3

Re: OK - a 2 minute look

David Weaver

I went out and looked on the lowes site and it looks like there are two products- one is a clear, and one is a paint.

FIL used the paint.

The clear appears also just to be an acrylic water based finish that goes directly on the floor after etching. It gets far better reviews. Not a surprise that durability and adhesion would be better for a gloss clear finish vs. a satin enamel with paint pigment in it.

The reviews are drastically different. FIL wanted the color in the product to make the floor look nice (since it wasn't a new floor and had some surface color variation). Credibly large pool of reviews for both.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Seal-Krete-1-Part-Clear-Gloss-Garage-Floor-Epoxy-Actual-Net-Contents-1-Gallon/1000180227

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Seal-Krete-Epoxy-Seal-Concrete-and-Garage-Floor-Paint-1-Part-Armor-Gray-Satin-Garage-Floor-Epoxy-Actual-Net-Contents-123-fl-oz/1000180223?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-pnt-_-google-_-lia-_--_-floorcoatings-_-1000180223-_-0&store_code=3051&placeholder=null&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwr32BRD4ARIsAAJNf_0JiM01X-QbEBA4eEyxQXaSRi56qXyTvFaFMO0fwTPqYzySIII-kzgaArfrEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The clear product instructions say on fresh concrete, as long as it's fully cured, a surface etch is all that's required prior to application.

Re: OT Garage floor painting

#4

Re: OT Garage floor painting

paul in AZ

I have experience with two products in different houses.

In a previous house I used some sort of concrete sealer paint. Don't remember the brand -it was several years ago. Looked fine but within 6 months the paint pulled off in places subjected to the weight of the car, i.e. where the tires sit.

In my current house I used Rustoleum 2 part epoxy after a good clean and etch. This has lasted 10 or so years with no trouble. I also used that on my shop's slab when I added that. No problems. Worth the extra effort.

Re: OT Garage floor painting

#5

Re: OT Garage floor painting

Norm Royu

Did a 3 car garage 15 years ago with muriatic acid wash, water rinse with a stiff broom, two part epoxy. Still looks great and super easy to clean. I don't remember the brand, but it leveled well. I would do it again. I let it cure for a couple of weeks before using the space. Glad your tools survived.

Re: OT Garage floor painting

#6

Well Two part

Mike L

I guess I will not be drinking beer this month. I will be getting the two part stuff and do it right the first time.

Re: OT Garage floor painting

#7

Re: Well Two part

Don Orr

You won't be sorry. Look into Muralo, I think, brand. I used a waterborne from them on my new shop floor 15 years ago and it's still going strong. No hot car tires on it though. I was all geared up up with PPE including organic vapor cartridges on my half mask respirator. My wife came out to see how I was doing and could barely smell anything-and she has a SUPER sensitive nose. I don't remember the name but it could be Ultra-Tred.

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