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Dealing with European bark edged lumber

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Dealing with European bark edged lumber

#1

Dealing with European bark edged lumber

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Buried in a post below on beech is a discussion of European Beech. Logs are sawed through (sometimes, often?) without turning the log, and the lumber dried and sold as whatever came from the log. While this practice could be done at some small band saw mills I have never seen a log processed this way at a mill in the US. The practice leads to two questions. Why would logs ever be sawed this way and once in the shop how does the shop begin to turn a board with bark on both edges into straight edged lumber?

The disadvantages seem numerous. A lot of useless material is carried through from mill to shop. Scraps that would be used for kiln fuel are pushed into the shop. Kiln capacity is inefficiently used. Ditto transportation. The shop is left dealing with a substantial quantity of low grade lumber only useful for short or narrow cuttings.

Removing bark at the mill is trivial and efficient. I don't have a way in my shop of easily straightening a bark edge. How is it done?

To clarify the questions, I am directing the questions to the market of a professional shop making the variety of a professional wood shop's products. But even a hobby shop is faced with a lot of low grade lumber and waste disposal it is not well equipped to deal with.

Re: Dealing with European bark edged lumber

#2

Re: Dealing with European bark edged lumber

Tom Dunlap

Moving bark-on lumber and logs and pallets/shipping material is how Dutch Elm Disease, Emerald Ash Borer and a myriad of other tree killers have moved around

I’m surprised Customs still allows bark-on wood to be imported

Tom

Re: Dealing with European bark edged lumber

#4

Re: Dealing with European bark edged lumber

Sgian Dubh

Logs are sawed through (sometimes, often?) without turning the log, and the lumber dried and sold as whatever came from the log.

Yes, known as boules.

While this practice could be done at some small band saw mills I have never seen a log processed this way at a mill in the US.

In think it's less usual to undertake through and through sawing here in the UK, and the rest of Europe, and it's more common for a sawlog to be processed in a manner similar to the methods you are used to in North America, i.e., saw a bit, turn saw some more, etc. Bandmills, which probably account for somewhere north of 95% of all board milling operations in Europe, do range in capacity from relatively small to large - I can't recall ever seeing a circular saw convert sawlogs in the UK, but that doesn't mean that type of saw doesn't exist here. A few of the larger bandmills have a capacity of up to perhaps ~1,550 mm so, if that's the case, they could handle a log up to about 1,500 mm (<5 ft) diameter without the need for turning the log, but I'd say this ability is relatively rare.

Why would logs ever be sawed this way

It's likely that most buyers of boules tend to have specific requirements of colour consistency, for example, for a particular project, or they want to be sure that every bit of wood in a project or projects is sourced from the same tree. I recall one timber yard showing me a few boules of walnut and (maybe) oak they were air drying for a couple of customers: for the life of me I can't now remember who the customers were, but it was high end manufacturing of some sort, automobiles, a yacht builder, or similar, and I think the oak was destined for a musical instrument maker - sorry I can't be more specific on that.

once in the shop how does the shop begin to turn a board with bark on both edges into straight edged lumber?

Snap a chalk line and freehand guide the board to rip off the edge(s) with either a powerful rip saw (like a big cabinet saw, but with safety devices left in place, i.e., riving knife and crown guard) or a bandsaw. Alternatives are large hand held circular saws or handheld bandsaws, e.g., Mafell brand. I have undertaken a fair amount of this kind of initial processing using all the above, with the exception of a handheld bandsaw.

The disadvantages seem numerous. A lot of useless material is carried through from mill to shop. Scraps that would be used for kiln fuel are pushed into the shop. Kiln capacity is inefficiently used.

As before, boules tend to be air dried for the most part, with some perhaps getting a small amount of kilning at the end. I agree that there can be a lot of waste and inefficiency, but offcuts processed in the workshop can be burnt during the winter in a log burner to warm the place. On the other hand, air dried waney edged material is quite often significantly less expensive to buy than relatively highly processed and kilned square edged boards ... but you have to buy more of the stuff to allow for waste, which then does rather increase the overall cost of material purchased, so probably little or no saving overall.

Ditto transportation. The shop is left dealing with a substantial quantity of low grade lumber only useful for short or narrow cuttings.

Agreed. Boules don't make nice neat tidy piles for transporting, but the offcuts can go into the log burner, as mentioned above

Removing bark at the mill is trivial and efficient.

I agree, but it's not always what the end user wants. The customer maybe wants to make their own choice on what sap to remove, or not.

I don't have a way in my shop of easily straightening a bark edge. How is it done?

I think I answered this earlier.

To clarify the questions, I am directing the questions to the market of a professional shop making the variety of a professional wood shop's products. But even a hobby shop is faced with a lot of low grade lumber and waste disposal it is not well equipped to deal with.

Well, I hope I provided enough information for you to chew on. But, in general, the methods you're familiar with in the US are certainly more efficient and cost effective, and provide a relatively uniform product (if we can say that about wood), but I suppose there are always some woodworkers out there that like to be contrary, if you know what I mean, or have particular requirements and preferences and really don't want that neatly kilned and square edged stock, and really want those boules for their reasons, whatever they may be, ha, ha. Slainte.

Re: Dealing with European bark edged lumber

#5

Thank you

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I mistakenly though this kind of sawing was more common. I understand the specialty need and the willingness to suffer some disadvantages to build some things from one tree. I am doing nearly the same for the show parts of a desk. All the panels and drawer fronts are from matching board.

Re: Dealing with European bark edged lumber

#6

Re: Thank you

jessecloud

An easy way to straighten a barked edge is to clamp a straight edged board to the workpiece, maybe on sawhorses or some platform with the offending edge sticking out. Then use the straight board as a fence for your circular saw.

If you have a track saw, the process is trivial.

Re: Dealing with European bark edged lumber

#7

Re: Thank you too

John Jardin

Another sawmill system in Europe is the sash gang saw used primarily for softwoods, but also for hardwoods.

I've bought European Pear from Hearne Hardwoods and it was sawn through and through. In fact, the ends of some boards had small strips of wood nailed in hopes of limiting splitting.

At $12 - $14 per bd ft., I appreciate live edge lumber like that.

Re: Dealing with European bark edged lumber

#8

Bill, George Nakashima inspired lots of people *LINK*

Keith Newton

If you are not familiar with his work, you should try to get your hands on “The Soul of a Tree” By him.

Here is a link to a little bit of his work, but this may not be to your liking since you like more period design. Reading the text helps understand his reverence not just for the wood, but for the trees from which it came.


https://images.app.goo.gl/z14ZaNa8hvS9rh2Z8

Re: Dealing with European bark edged lumber

#9

interesting read

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

It is just not in me to get into the soul of trees. Simply doesn't compute. Must be a gene missing. Same for that part of Krenov though I am smitten by many of his designs. But furniture is just a place to store your socks.

Krenov had one philosophy I do subscribe to. He taught that good furniture design should foremost look good made out of something plain. The attractiveness of the wood enhanced the already attractive form. I am into this philosophy and not into the modern trend of bland design and fancy wood, with the live edge fashion added to my don't like list. Given my missing art gene this furniture looks to me like high school shop design dressed up with fancy wood. I am probably way underestimating the work but the Nakashima furniture looks easy to reproduce.

Re: Dealing with European bark edged lumber

#10

I am jealous...

David Weaver

..I gathered from your discussion that you meant through and through also, and as bill says, the old frick type mill methods have carried through to most of the lumber supplied here (once the log is cleaned off into a cant, it's rotated until the pith is left and then it's a grab bag - it could be left as a post or sawn through into boards).

I'd love to have a whole color matched log with a variety of sawing in it as you get with through and through. It generally costs more to get a log sawn like that here, I guess because the log has to be pretty enough to be sawn and sold that way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kx1CjSlxAeo

Mills like this from my understanding have been run out of business by automated mills and people willing to saw at a loss for some expectation of who knows what in the future (this guy is semi-retired, but mentions in videos at one point that he employed a grader and a marketer and about 6 other guys and had this mill running full time).

Re: Dealing with European bark edged lumber

#11

automated mill

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Shown is the head saw at Bailie's SC mill. There is little labor in this mill, highly automated. A computer/scanner does the edging and "knows" the grading rules to leave as much wane on the board as is allowed, for example.



So what did I see out back? A Woodmiser with two men and a fork lift running it. What?



This mill has an 8" gang saw for sawing up to 8" thick cants into 1" boards. When the head saw goes down for repair or maintenance the entire rest of the mill from saw to stacking would go idle. But the Woodmiser stock piles 8" cants and these feed the gang saw and hence the rest of the mill while the head saw is brought back to service. Clever. In good times 50% of their production is exported.

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