Stains for cherry?

Re: Stains for cherry?

David Yoho

I started to skip a reply here because I can't offer a stain suggestion. I've always been in the camp of leaving it natural and letting it darken naturally.

But then you said -

I would like to "even out" some cherry that I am working on.

You may already be aware of this but it might not be possible to succeed long term for several reasons. Cherry from the same tree or area may work to even the tone out initially but the darker pieces will still be darker in time under a stain. Cherry from a different region of the country may never give you an even tone since it may be lighter to begin with and not darken as much as it ages.

I like the look of wood and it's inconsistences but that's me. Perhaps someone will have a suggestion for you. Still, after some time, and it doesn't take long for cherry, the tone may not stay even.

Re: Stains for cherry?

roger lance

Try gel stains on wood that blotches.

Re: Stains for cherry?

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Unlike most I always stain cherry. I think unstained cherry looks raw and only suitable for informal furniture. Ditto for mahogany.

Pigment stains are mineral oxides and they don't fade....ever. Staining with pigment stain takes experience to get an attractive result. You have mastered the process on walnut, so you will be prepared for cherry. The remaining question is what stain to use. Most commercial stains are too red, too brown, or even purple in one case I tried. For years I nursed a quart of extinct Sherwin William pigment cherry. When it ran out it was quite a quest to fine a replicate, a mix of General "Candlelight" (too brown by itself) and Benjamin Moore Cherry(too red by itself).

For my next cherry project I am going to create a cherry pigment stain the same as the walnut. Burnt Sienna is about the color I am looking for. If it needs to be more brown I will add Vandyke brown, or if more red, Red Ochre. Total stain will be around 10-20% weight per cent to get the desirable depth of color.

If you develop a pigment stain from artist pigment let us know the recipe.

Re: Stains for cherry?

William Duffield

Bill's formula is a good place to start from. A little experimentation, especially with the proportions of the red pigments, will probably be necessary, since everyone's definition of "cherry" is a little (or in the case of interior decorators, a lot) different. I usually start a little more conservative, with the linseed oil, mineral spirits, and a little less burnt umber, adding burnt sienna a little at a time, until it is "red enough". To make the sap wood look more like heart wood, you will probably need more burnt umber and a good brush.

burnt umber is brown

Re: burnt umber is brown

William Duffield

So is your cherry table

Pigments

JL

I looked at what is available in Winton oil paints.

The local place has Red Sienna and Indian Red (variant of a red ochre).

So I may buy a couple of tubes and do some experimenting.

Re: Pigments

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I suggest finding some burnt sienna as a starting point. It is a reddish brown not unlike what cherry ages to.

Re: Stains for cherry?

E Phillip Smith

If you like the stain Bill used, I've included picture with Sherwin Williams formula. I've stained all the cherry trim and cabinets in my house with this stain. I've almost used all I have. Sherwin Williams does not stock this stain in their retail stores but can match the formula from their code book.

Available in quarts?

JL

I can't imagine using a whole gallon before it dries up.

Re: Pigments

John in NM

I bought some raw ochre for mixing up matching stain for maple - I was trying to match a new stock to one I made for a guy several years ago, he was very pleased with the results.

What I really like about Bill's method here is that I find it subtle. What always gave me a prejudice against staining wood is that few if any commercial stains I've tried are subtle. Best results I've gotten have come from mixing stains to knock down a color that is a jab in the eye.

The only downside is that it takes the oils so long to dry. I might pick up some Japan drier next time, I remember that working well.

Re: Available in quarts?

E Phillip Smith

Since it is custom mix I think they will make quarts just fine. I had them make a gallon and bought quart cans to pour into. If you open and close cans over time the binder (resin) will crosslink and make the stain unusable. Sealed in a full quart can it will last indefinitely. The last gallon lasted 25+ years in small cans. I expect this will be the last cherry stain I buy.

I don't won't to have go through getting stain matched again.

the rest of the story

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

These oil pigments are mixed into General Finishes anti blotching stuff which seems to be a dilute varnish. It dries overnight.

Re: the rest of the story

John in NM

I've been mixing with a little BLO and rubbing onto the wood. Figured the driers in BLO would do the job, but I've usually had to wait a couple days before continuing to finish.

I suppose I could try Waterlox instead. The "sealer/finish" is what I use, and its basically a thin varnish about like you describe from General.

Re: the rest of the story

David Weaver

You can apply shellac directly to it and then move on pretty quickly.

Re: the rest of the story

John in NM

That is an option, though I think trying the Waterlox is going to be first. It cures fast and it's what is going over the top anyhow.

Re: Stains for cherry?

David Weaver

I'm interested in this so far as I may be able to find a pigment stain that actually darkens cherry enough for the mrs' tastes.

The table, though, appears to be lighter than the cabinets I have in my kitchen (which have now obtained their suntan). Color evens out over time, but 90% of my kitchen was from one tree. I had to supplement a little bit to complete the job and I tried to use that supplemental wood on lower face frames and some drawer fronts below the counter. They're closer to even now. Bad at first!!

The color of that table and chair looks great, though.