When I do that I use a smaller router bit than the width I need and build a jig with two rails to guide the router. The width between the guide rails determines the dado width.
I was just going to use my clamp guides rather than build a jig. I can set them further apart and use a smaller bit for the dados. Sneaking up on the rabbets would be less easy but it could be done.
I think the time for undersized plywood bits has gone. No fault of the bits, but the plywood sold today, even at good lumber yards, is too inconsistent
For your dado joints - instead of cutting 3/4" wide dadoes for 3/4" plywood, you can use either your 1/2" or 3/8" straight router bit to cut your groove. Then rabbet the end of the piece going into the dado so it fits well. No need for undersize bits and the fit is exact, not to mention a strong joint.
The method described with provide a shoulder if the assemble is a shelf in a case, for example. This shoulder provides substantial stability to the structure. I have built many shelf units the way David describes and they are ridgid even without backs.