Sharpening a back saw question

Re: Sharpening a back saw question

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Hi Barry

Absolutely do it yourself. This is one of those tasks that appear daunting until you have done it once or twice, and then is as straightforward as sharpening a plane blade.

You need the appropriate files - in your case a 4 1/2” or 5” extra slim or needle file. You can get them from Lee Valley.

You also need a vise to hold the blade, but a couple of blocks of wood in a face vise work well. Good light is essential. If like me, needing reading glasses, a magnifier (preferably lighted) is very helpful.

There is an awful lot of videos around to guide you through the process. In brief, you need to retain the same rake angle of the existing teeth, and file the tooth face until you remove the shiny spot at the tip. (This is essentially the same process as creating a wire edge when you hone a blade). A light - emphasise Light - jointing with a fine flat file down the length of the teeth will do this. An experienced filer does not do this every time, such as when touching up teeth. Further, you do not need to re-set the teeth after a light touch up, such as you will do. That is only necessary after a few sharpenings.

Look at the task you have as a basic one. Don’t be daunted. Whatever you do will improve the saw cut. Really. Keep it light - one or two strokes only across the face if the tooth. Check for the shiny tip - it needs to be removed. Keep the rake angle the same. That’s all there is to it.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Like always, it depends

Dick Coers

It depends on the quality of the existing teeth, and if the tooth count and set are appropriate for what you intend to do with it. If the teeth are really dull, you should joint them with a flat file, set the teeth, and then do the sharpening. I don't have a tooth setter, so I would send it out. I used to have a grand older gentlemen who was a master at this. I once bought a really good hand saw on an auction, and I had him convert it to a rip saw. He took off all the teeth, then punched new ones in the steel, set it, and put the appropriate chisel style grind. He passed away, and I have yet to find a replacement guy.

In the past, every hardware store or lumber yard had the right Foley equipment to sharpen. If you have a good old style lumber yard, check with them. After that, ask Google.

Re: Like always, it depends *LINK*

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

A Foley saw is not necessary to punch in new teeth. It is just faster and generally a production tool. One can remove teeth with a coarse file, and then use a paper template (available on many sites - link below). Lay the template over the plate and file in the spacing. Then file at the rake angle desired (info in the link below).

It is also not necessary to remove teeth, unless the spacing is wildly out, or the teeth are very misshapen.

Regards from Perth

Derek


Blackburn Tool articles

Re: Sharpening a back saw question

Philip Duffy

Take pride in the attempt even if the first go is not so perfect. You will get better at it each time and soon your saw(s) will cut better than the factory production saws. P.

Re: Sharpening a back saw question

Don Stephan

Paul Sellers has absolutely first rate Youtube video on recutting and resharpening hand saws. As said, if the teeth are still uniformly spaced and similar angles and profiles, sharpen; otherwise might be time to file them back to continuous metal and begin anew.

Before beginning, you need to determine whether the teeth are filed as crosscut or rip, and how you want to use the saw in the future.

Timely

Joe shelton

Quaking in my boots over this at the moment.

One particular concern is with a nice Adria saw, which tends to stop,, completely and abruptly at a point just more than half the length of the blade. I can't see any distortions in that area.

Any thoughts?

Of course new teeth aren't necessary

Dick Coers

But often very beneficial. The saw company took a shot at what the user might be using the saw for, and filed accordingly. And if the saw is fairly new and consumer quality, the tooth design could easily benefit. In my experience, a common back saw is both too aggressive in tooth count and set.

with a straightedge, check the set of the teeth

Re: Timely

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

The teeth likely need more set. To test this, wax the plate above the teeth. That makes up for too little set. (It may only need a smidgeon more).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Amazing, Derek...

Joe shelton

Not that you were correct, but that I could demonstrate it, and even measure it.

My micrometer is just a hardware-store tool which I bought on a lark three days ago, and have now used twice, but I found a consistent difference of .001", which qualifies here in Alabama as a 'smidgeon'.

I think that, before I try to add set, I'll just use wax on the blade rather than oil. It worked pretty well.

Thank you.

Re: Sharpening a back saw question

Don Orr

Easy to do yourself with a few simple tools as already described. Check out vintagesaws.com in the library for an excellent tutorial. If I can do it anyone can.