Gents - My Sjoberg workbench has 1 inch dog holes. I would like to get a couple of steel holdfasts but seem to only to find 3/4 inch on the market. Any help you could provide will be appreciated. Thanks.
Check your yellow pages(do people still use those?) for a local blacksmith. Holdfasts are fairly easy to fashion . If you buy the bar stock I bet you could get a blacksmith to bend some up for you fairly cheap.---Jack
I'd probably use some "almost" 1-inch diameter rod, heat and bend a smaller rod (and pound the end flat), then weld the smaller rod to the 1". An acetylene torch will make bending easier although I have also used Mapp gas in a hand-held torch.
If you live close enough bring some stock and we can make some.
But I use the cheap holdfasts from Woodcraft and the good ones from TFWW, and in my Sjoberg bench.
I bought a short length of flexible hose at Home Depot whose O.D. fit the dog holes, and cut short sections of to insert at the top of a hole I want to use. Then I use the holdfast through it.
It would save you time and money, and work better, if you just ignored the existing dog holes, drilled some new ones, and purchased a pair of Gramercy holdfasts from Tools For Working Wood. If the useless dog holes bother you, just plug them with some maple or beech dowel stock.
All tools are kits: This rule applies especially to workbenches.
To drill bench holes, drill a 3/4" guide hole in a 2" tall piece of hardwood, using drill press to ensure it is perpendicular to surface. Clamp guide in place and drill away. A spur tipped auger drill bit works for me. A second handle on the drill is a good idea. If the bit grabs the torque on the hand holding can be painful.....now how do I know that?
Drill 3/4" holes and get the Gramercy. You could even plug the existing 1" holes, should you wish.
I would use a brace with a 3/4" auger bit. Sharp spurs help enormously. My tip, if the wood is especially hard, is to drill a pilot hole with a 1/8" bit (use your power drill). The screw will bite into the pilot hole and pull itself more easily through the hard wood. Use a square alongside to ensure vertical. Or, start the hole with a router to create a vertical guide (or make a guide from a drilled board).
This is the power tool Forum Rather than drill a pilot hole with a power drill under cover and then publically brace our way through the bench half a turn of the handle at a time (it is noted the bench hole is against the wall ) we would power our way through the bench with one 3/4" bit in our 1/2" drill, corded or battery operated. And then get on with routing something..........
Thank you for the wide range of options. After careful consideration I’m inclined to bite the bullet and go with the Crucibletool holdfast. It’s more than I want to spend but it’s a tried and true product that will allow me to get on with my projects. Thank you for sharing with me your experience and creativity. It was a real eye-opener.
I made a joiners bench with a lot of holes. I started each hole with a spade bit. I made a long router base of 1/4 hardboard. Clamped a plunge router in place and routed the hole. Jerry
Has anyone tried to use a holdfast in the square holes made to fit the square Veritas bench dogs? I spent so much time making my bench to fit them (in the 90's before holdfasts became the rage).
Don't get me wrong, I like those square holes and don't want to ream them out to fit a holdfast. I just wanted to try out the new (actually, centuries year old) trend of using a holdfast.