Biesemeyer Fence question

Re: Biesemeyer Fence question

Mike Jurnigan

Barry,

I saw a set up on a Steel City table saw that I like enough to copy for my Jet table saw. The Steel City saw had a glide that was made from a threaded furniture glide with a nylon foot it was mounted at the far end of the fence. I drilled a couple of holes in my Jet X-acta fence in line with the back rail. I have mounted so it is adjustable and since it runs on the back rail it is parallel to the table saw top. You can adjust it to have a minimum gap of several thousandths of an inch to a sixteenth of an inch above the table top. The nylon glide slides effortlessly on the rail.

Hope this helps,

Mike in Zuni, VA

Re: Biesemeyer Fence question

Larry Clinton At Frankfort, (Central) Indiana

Haven't worn out my Bies Fence guides yet, but when I do I will purchase the UHMW tape with adhesive and stick it on the old area. UHMW has a lower co-efficient of friction than Teflon. Their are a lot of different widths and thicknesses listed on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_2?rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Auhmw+tape&page=2&keywords=uhmw+tape&ie=UTF8&qid=1497869035&spIA=B00823JCA6,B00823JFM6,B00XK9V9ZS,B00JODV01M

Be sure to get one with the adhesive - it is very difficult to glue UHMW to anything, don't know how the manufacturer's apply the adhesive, but it works. I have used it in the factory often prior to my retirement. It should be no problem to stick some on and remove / replace it when it wears out. I would not get any below 10 mm / 1/32" thick for this application.

I just did what I should have done....

Barry Irby

to start with and searched for parts. I am confused by the fact that there are many different fence setups and a variety of pads. Some are discontinued. Some have different part numbers. I really don't understand why such a basic part would change. I would have thought they would all be the same. And I am slightly amazed at the price. The range from about $5 to $7.50. Each. There are five on the fence. I was thinking I would get new ones and maybe a spare set, but I was thinking they would be a buck or two each. Don't want to spend $25 or $50 and not be certain they fit.

Back to the tape?

Re: Biesemeyer Fence question

roger lance

Sorry......can't help.....I'm still using that ole crummy Jet-Lock fence that came with the saw some 30 years ago.....nothings wore out yet.

Re: Biesemeyer Fence question

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Hi Barry, when this happened to mine, I epoxied on a layer of UHMW Polyethylene.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Biesemeyer Fence question

jesse cloud

Do you have the extension to the right of the cast iron table? If so, check closely to see any signs of the fence rubbing against the formica. Mine seems to get out of alignment often, maybe as the saw moves every so slightly on my uneven garage floor.

BTW, if you find any Delta/Biesemeyer parts available on line that you need, think seriously about buying them now. They are getting harder and harder to find. The latest owner clearly doesn't give a *** about replacement parts, even at $25 for a few plastic dots.

Having said all that, I think the suggested replacements with UMHW would work fine. I recently rehabbed my fence with new formica and readjusted the shims for a better vertical fit, it was a few degrees off 90.

Re: Biesemeyer Fence question

Barry Irby

Good thoughts. I think I will pull out the instructions and see if I can raise the rail slightly. If I can raise it a hundredth or two then I only need to deal the the pad on the far end.

question re the epoxy

Ian Neuhaus

Hi Derek

UHMW plastic has a reputation of being almost impossible to glue -- either to itself or to other materials.

do you recall what epoxy / procedure you used?

Re: question re the epoxy

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Hi Ian

The epoxy was nothing special - just a 5 minute set type from Carbatec. Perhaps I have been lucky, but this is not the first time I have managed to glue UHMW. Perhaps it may be that the UHMW slides on a smooth steel runner and does not have any stresses to deal with?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Glueing UHMW *LINK*

Bob Entwisle in NJ

This thread led me to this link, hope some will find it useful.

Bob in NJ


http://reltekllc.com/adhesivesforuhmw.aspx

thanks

Re: Biesemeyer Fence question

TomD

It is available in a PSA version. People use it on drift boats, so in the PNW, you might find scrap.

Re: Glueing with Epoxy

TomD

Any time you want to glue slick plastic with epoxy, you can try the lighter trick. Try to oxidize the surface with a lighter flame, or similar clean flame. Just taking the shine off, giving it a matt look, is enough oxide to promote a bond. This is wind at to your back stuff as if you burn it, god only knows (and maybe Bill Tindall) what dogs of chemical hell are set free. But done correctly there shouldn't be any visible smoke.

Re: Glueing with Epoxy

Larry Clinton At Frankfort, (Central) Indiana

You are correct in that the flaming of the surface does increase adherence of adhesive and printing ink to a plastic surface. I went to the Lionel train factory and when they printed the graphics on the toy vehicles, all the surfaces were "flamed" prior to printing with a transfer (tampon) printing machine. I also designed machines in the factory I worked in that printed graphics on GM automotive switches using a flame to prepare the surface (same Tampon type transfer printer).

However I advised that the UHMW to be used as a tape be purchased with the adhesive applied by the manufacturer due to the fact we used a great deal of that material and were never to obtain the bond strength of the per-applied tape! We were very aware of the various types of adhesives as we used many different epoxies, cyanoacrylates and other adhesives in our manufacturing processes.

Up date on fence.

Barry Irby

This morning I got out the instruction on installing the fence. There are four bolts in slotted holes. Once the rails is properly set you drill and tap a hole at each end to permanently lock it in place. I did all that maybe ten years ago. Now I check the rail and its about a 1/100" low. I wonder if it has been low form the beginning???? I am not enough of a machinist to figure out how to raise in spite of the drilled and tapped holes.

So, I shimmed under the rail on top of the angle Iron. Slipped in a very thin piece of Formica. Seems to have worked well. Fence now glides like new.

I am considering shimming the pads on the far end of the fence, but I tried to pry one out gently and it did not let go so I stopped to avoid damaging it. I can not get to the top side to use a drift punch.

I am still thinking about this at my usual glacial pace.

Re: Glueing with Epoxy

TomD

Interesting, Larry. I wasn't contradicting your prescription, just adding gluing info, as I said "anytime", could be the bottom of a plane, or a wear strip on a machine.