sliding tablesaw

Re: sliding tablesaw

Jack in Brooklyn

>I used to rent space from a cabinetmaker that had an Altendorf F-45. It was dead on accurate, the scoring blade did a good job and the dust collection was very good

Re: sliding tablesaw

Rick L------WebKitFormBoundaryKoqP3jEC+bOVNWd3

>Budget? Plenty of other viable options such as Paolini, Minimax, Kufo, Rojek, Sicar. Just picked up a used SCMI SI-15F 48" crosscut slider that takes a dado blade for $1,000. Don't even worry about seperate scoring motors or you will limit your choices. Forest Hi AT blade will do a better job than a scoring blade. Unless it's a beam saw a scoring blade on a regular is less effective. A slight wave in the panel and you get tearout unless the panel is perfectly flat. Forget the Altendorf. Plenty of inexpensive options for the small shop or hobbbyiest. You don't have to buy the most expensive tool to do good work. The operator is the most important part.

Re: sliding tablesaw

James Clair

>I agree with Rick. I would watch for auctions in your area. The SCMI saws are the best I have used. Do the homework, the saw I use has only a 42" cross cut. But the quality, the durablity, and the accuracy can make up for the short stroke. SCMI has made a bigger saw, but I don't know the numbers. The safty of the slider is the best and most important feature. Take a 11" wide, 10' long, heavy oak board and cross cut it on the slider. Very nice! Sliders can cut up to 4-1/2" boards at the same time, I only do 3. Cutting angles is very nice. No sliding jigs for the tablesaw. Spend the extra money and get a good saw. It will be worth your time and safty.

Re: sliding tablesaw

Brad

>Rick, I couldn't disagree more about needing the scoring blade, that's the whole reason to have the slider for me. I have used the Forrest blades and the cut is not even close to what I get off my MiniMax slider with scoring blade. I do agree that warped sheets make it less effective but a bit of pressure near the warp to flatten it and the scoring blade works again. You are right on about the wide range of brands out there, and so many are available at auction for half of new as long as you know what you are looking for and how to buy at an auction you could save a ton. I bought an 8' mid price range Minimax and wish I would have bought a larger one and bought a long time ago it is so nice to use.

Brad

Re: Scoring blade

Rick L------WebKitFormBoundaryKoqP3jEC+bOVNWd3

>I've been using sliders, including beam saws for 35 years. With plywood and some sheet goods the slider is more work than having a dedicated blade like a Forest Hi-AT. We could do a complete kitchen of melamine with the Forest blade. In another shop cutting plywood with the scoring blade was difficult because of the warp of plywood. We started with weights and eventually designed an air beam flattening device. There's no easy one answer to this situation. Some folks will tell you how only an Altendorf is worth getting . Most folks don't even post a question properly such as telling what their budget is and their present need and potential future needs to properly answer the question.

I can tell from his question he doesn't even know what else is out there. Buying used wouldn't be recommended for most people unless you have a good background in machinery. The SCMI SI-15F is missing some pieces but I have a background in machine repair.

Re: sliding tablesaw

Phil in NJ

>You might want to check out the YahooGroups groups for Minimax and Felder. There's a lot of material there.

Personally I have a Felder saw/shaper, with a 9' slider. Love it.

-Phil

Re: sliding tablesaw

Roger R

>Thank you for the info. Could you provide the model number of your saw. Do you happen to have a power feeder on your unit? The one I am looking at comes with a fielder S-308. Did you buy the unit new or used?

Thank's

Roger

Re: sliding tablesaw

Roger R

>Hello,

Thank you for your info. You are correct in that I do not know much about slidingsaw's. That is why I am trying to get more info. on them. I have gotten info. on the Hammer K-3 winner saw and have spoken to one guy who has one and really loves it. I spoke to two

reps at the woodworker's show on Sat. and now have some info. on the General line and the Laguna tools. The general does not take a dado set up. I want to be able to rip and cross cut full 4X8' sheet goods. I run a small shop part time and have a hard time handling full sheets when my son's are not around to help. So, if you have some ideas in the $7-9K range I would

like to hear them.

Thank's again,

Roger

Re: sliding tablesaw *LINK*

charlie belden

>Add the Robland X-31 combi or its sliding table saw and shaper to your list to investigate. Laguna Tools is their US distributor.

Be aware that any of these sliders can be fun to set up and maintain - most are "euro machines" and the "manuals" that come with them - well - they're often parts lists and minimal on set up and trouble shooting info. I had to visit the Robland factory in Belgium and take notes and photos of them setting up 6 units to do my own set up instructions.

The sliding table can be tricky to set up because it has to track parallel to the miter slot (to which the saw blade is set parallel) without riding up or down or go out of parallel to the miter slot.

Once you get the 4x8 sheet ON the sliding table the rest is made easier by the sliding table. Getting a full sheet of 3/4" ply, or worse yet, melamine, ON the table ain't always fun.

Check out where the On/Off switch for the saw is. Climbing UNDER a full sheet to turn the saw on - like on the Robland is a PITA.

I'm seriously looking into the Festool plunge saw and edge guide for sheet goods work. A foam insulation panel on the driveway and the plunge saw/edge guide requires less lifting and because it significantly reduces chip out/tear out - by design - it does the job. Doesn't take up a lot of shop space either.


Robland X-31 Combination Machine