Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Horizontal Mortiser Question
Tom Norton
>I am think about making a horizontal mortiser but not using a router. I would like to consider a Jacob style chuck mounted to some type of shaft with a pulley going to a motor. BUT I cannot think of what the shaft is called with the pillow blocks? I think there are some type that the pillow block and shaft are all one unit. Any help would be great!
Not recomended.
Ed Snow
>You will have an issue with the chuck coming off the arbour. As well the bearings in the pillow blocks will not have the tolerance required or the ability to side load as you will need.
Been there, tried it. Bought one shortly after.
Re: Not recomended.
Tom Norton
>I am a bit confused as a router would have the same side load concern> Also how would the chuck come off the shaft?
Tom
Re: Not recomended.
Paul Waddle
>While I'm not sure the chuck would come off,I would be more concerned about the gripping of harden router shafts instead of a collet. There are carving machines that use a belt and motor arrangement to drive the cutter,but most of the cnc and manual carvers use a router instead. Pillow blocks will not have the tolerances;also the router will turn 25k rpms +. Above 10k rpms,a special belt will be necessary-ask me how I know.... Drum roll please.... use a router and make yourself a very good mortiser. jmho,pw
Re: direct conect
joe-a
>A few years ago I bougth at a local auction a 10 hp penske motor with a 1" shaft(3450 rpm) with a machined connector connecting the the shaft with a jocobs chuck(1/2"); two set screws to lock in the connector to the shaft.attached was a 1/2" drill bit.About the same time I picked up a salvage yard, a x-y slide table(16" of travel) used in the automation industries(I think for under $25). I have made this in the past using accuride slides (bearings are part of action). A machine shop can make the appropriate connector for the router bit.This is basically how the INVECTA works. Note 1 - the motor came from a shop that made trusses and offsite panel walls. Note 2 - Eventually I will complete this,but I have made similar machines using a porter-cable 1 1/2 hp with a 1/2"collet using air cylinders(clamping and movement) again from the salvage yard. When I figure out how to use a digital camera and upload to the computer and the internet, I will present some displays. I am still this new fangull device(computer) .. ----- joe
Re: Horizontal Mortiser Question
Tom Stockton
>Your idea will work fine. I believe you will need what is called a mandrel it has a threaded end that the chuck will attach to so there is no concern of the chuck flying off. Use machinest end mills which are designed to run at much slower rpm's than router bits and don't exceed the max rpm of the mandrel or end mill and you will do fine. lots of people have built set ups similar to what you want.
Tom
Re: router for horizontal mortiser
Carol from AZ
>Side load on router bearings is exactly what they are designed for.
Drill chucks would need to be threaded onto your drive shaft to keep from coming loose.
Curious as to why you want to avoid the router solution for this job?
Also I have looked into building one, ran the numbers and found the Grizzly had the best bang for the buck and features I could not easily duplicate. Check out G0540 Single Spindle Boring Machine on the Grizzly site. No router, but a nice dedicated machine for less than $400 plus shipping.
I have been known to build some rather complex jigs and tools, often deluding myself that I am saving significant money. I do save some money but I am out hours and hours and spend way more money than I anticipated. I like building tools, but I like making projects more. :) And I have learned that when I no longer have the need for a particular machine, I at least can get some of my money back. Homebuilt machines have far less residual value.
Final 2 cents. I own and have owned several Grizzly power tools. None have disappointed to date.
Re: router for horizontal mortiser
Tom Norton
>CArol, Funny you should mention the Grizzly unit. I bought one 3 1/2 weeks ago and just loaded it in the car today for a drive back to return it. Way too much slop in the slides.
Re: Horizontal Mortiser Question
Ted Wong
>Been there done that. It waorks okay. But as a earlier post noted I fine the runout to be more than I'd like, but I'm kind of picky about those things.
Re: Horizontal Mortiser Question
Tom Stockton
>Yeah I can see that. I'm real partial to my multi-router for mortising.
Tom
Re: router for horizontal mortiser
Carol from AZ
>Good to know, Tom. Thanks for the heads up.
Re: Some ideas
Rick L
>I much prefer the lower rpm of using a jackhaft and regular motor over a router for several reasons. Quieter and the lower rpm is good for dowel drilling. Commercial slot mortisers typically run around 3,500 to 6,000 rpm. You can use a Jacob chuck if you get the threaded type. They make one with a 5/8"-16 mount. You can do a jacobs taper mount if you pin it. Basically you disassemble the chuck and bore for a pin after you mount the chuck. It does work. Did it on my first handmill conversion to a mortiser. Use two flute HSS endmills. Carbide is not necessary and more expensive.
Don't sell that G0540 short. There's a review on this site and I've talked to several folks using them successfully. For that price you can tweak it and still dome out ahead. I've used the Rojek and it's pretty much on par with the G0540 but costs over a thousand dollars more. I've using and researcing slot mortisers for over 25 years and have tried pretty much almost all the ones out there. All my info is based on real experience and not your typical arm chair theory.
Re: Horizontal Mortiser Question
Pat Barber
>A cheaper and faster and much easier method is something
along these lines.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/horiztabl.html
After wasting hours,days,weeks building
all sorts of jury rigged contraptions, I can attest to the
buy first, make your own second school of thought for some
things....
Yes...I know "we are woodworkers" and we can build
"anything", given enough time and materials, and money.
See that cute little "lift" doo-hickey that moves the
router up and down ???
That's what you are paying for...
Re: Jackshaft and collet source *LINK*
Rick L
>Good source of pillow blocks and other stuff is www.surpluscenter.com
We make a lot of machines in our shop and use Surplus Center.
Collet
Re: That's the problem with the net...
Rick L
>Too many unscientific and unsubstantiated opinions. Just because one person says it's bad doesn't all the machines are bad. I've heard a few negative things but I've heard more positive feedback on the G0540. I've heard from 10 folks overall. Some direct and most on the web. Two were negative and the rest were positive from it's ok to it's great. For $400 if you have to do some tweaking and even replacing a couiple of bearings it's still a good deal for the average woodoworker. The slot mortiser isn't known by many never mind on how to use one, or get the most out of it or tune it up for best performance.