>I have a Delta contractors saw, Pal's Alignment system and an Incra 1000 Miter guage. The saw cuts parallel edges whenever I rip boards. It has never cut square crosscuts. The cut is square to the edge against the miter guage but not to the leading edge which enters the blade first. The saw blade is parallel to the slot in the table saw. I have tried numerous times readjusting the trunions and the miter guage fence.I have tried diffetent saw blades. Nothing I do corrects the problem. What am I missing?
>If the leading edge and the trailing edge of the piece being crosscut are ripped parallel, and if the crosscut is square with the trailing edge as you described, by definition, it must be square with the leading edge, provided that the cut is a straight line. If the crosscut is not a straight line, then I agree with the preceeding post, the piece is twisting during the cut and is not moving squarely through the blade.
>whether the crosscut piece is square depends SOLELY on whether the miter gauge fence is square to the miter guage bar.
If the TS miter slot is not in parallel with the blade, the piece is still square, but the cut is not smooth.
Of course if the piece slips during the cut, all bets are off. If you haven't done it yet, apply a strip of PSA sanding paper to the face of the fence of the miter gauge. This will prevent the piece from slipping.
>Hi, throw away all those modern miter fences, and make,buy,a crosscut sled,set up to cut sq.And you are good to go,if stock is dragging on TS table it won`t be sq. to blade when it starts to cut,no matter what you do.My exsperiance before i woke up. good Luck. Carl
>On my saw, I use a plastic drafting triangle to check/set the miter gage to be square to the blade. I have previously insured that the blade is parallel to the miter gage slot.
With the symptoms you describe of the leading edge being out of square, it sounds to me like your miter gage bar fits loose in the machined slot. When the bar is fully engaged at the end of the cut, your cut is square beacuse the bar fits tighter. When the bar is partially engaged at the start of the cut, it probably had free play left and right. This makes your cut out of square. This often occurs if you have tightened your miter gage bar using center punch pricks. What you nee is a better fit. there are several ways to do this. I was able to fix mine with a strip of .003 UHMW tape along one side of the miter gage bar. This tape eliminated all my side play and reduced the friction.
Another option would be to get a longer miter gage bar made up at a local machine shop and precisely ground to the width needed for your table slot.
