Jointer not doing well on convex board face

Re: Jointer not doing well on convex board face

mark lepore

>Try alternating the ends of the boards each time you run it through. Run it through one way and then end for end it and run it through the other way. also, be sure that both the infeed and outfeed tables are true to oneanother.

Mark

Re: Jointer not doing well on convex board face

Paul Dwight

>When I have weird boards like this I usually try to work the worst of the weirdness out by another means before I go to the jointer. I have a hand-held power plane that's useful for this kind of thing. It's not a precision tool but it does a good job taking down high spots to the point that a board can be run through the jointer without problems. A belt sander would probably do the same job, albeit not as quickly.

Do I understand correctly that the jointer is removing more material on the infeed end of the board than on the trailing end of the board? If that's the case, the first thing I'd try would be to flip the board end-for-end -- keeping the same face against the tables -- and take a few passes to try to even things out.

Good luck! -- Paul

Re: Jointer not doing well on convex board face

Doug in Denver

>There are three things you can try, in increasing order of time consumption. 1) hold the board so it is no longer resting on the flat surface that has been made by the jointer - rock it to one side so you force the jointer to work on the high spot. 2) Us a hand plane to get it roughly level, then joint. 3) Make a sled to run it through the planer.

Or the Neander Approach

Thomas Skaggs, Foothills of Mount Level

>I sometimes do the same thing with a jack plane.

Tom

Re: Jointer not doing well on convex board face

Keith Newton

>Wilbur, In your first paragraph, it sounds like you are describing "cup". If you run this side first, it is very important that you are holding it tangent to the center of the board on your first pass. Otherwise, you will need to shim the thin side to get you back on after that.

Later on down, you wrote this. I am just guessing that you meant to say concave side. It is most common to run the concave side first, which will usually eliminate user error.

If you are running the convex side down, it is important that you don't rock the board along as it passes over the cutter. You must keep it held on one plane as you pass it over the cutter, even if it means that you start in the middle first, and only get a short distance before you loose contact. Then on your next pass, keep that flat against the table all the way through.

As you said, you can turn the whole board into chips if you don't learn how.

Re: Jointer not doing well on convex board face

wilbur

>Oops -- you're right. In my fourth paragraph, I did mean to say, "Anyway, I know that with a curved board it is usually better to joint the CONCAVE side, but I don't have one with this particular board."

EBBAK.

Re: Jointer not doing well on convex board face

Mike Fitterling

>If I understand you correctly, you have a board that looks like this: () if it was standing on its side and you were looking at it from the end. If that is the case, here's what I do.

As you run the board through the jointer keep downward pressure above the "hump". It is a bit of a balancing act, and you don't want the board to tip side to side. Once through a couple times it gets easier, until you finish up with a flat side.

It sounds like you are putting pressure on one side or the other of the "hump" and the board is tipping so one edge and the "hump" is supporting the board against the jointer beds; this will end up with a wedge shape when looking at the end of the board (one side thicker than the other). This will work, but it takes a lot more jointing and a lot more wood comes off, so you have to have sufficient stock thickness to do it that way.

Even with cupped boards )) I often prefer to joint the "humped" side first as it is often on the heart side of the board. That way, once I have the board flat I use it as a reference and bring the thickness down on the sap side with the planer. Sometimes this is necessary to retain as much heart wood showing as possible.

Hope this all makes sense.

Good luck,

Mike

That's exactly it

wilbur

>Mike, that's exactly my situation. I forgot about the beauty of ASCII graphics.

To all, thanks for the tips.

Even better a scrub plane

Neal in San Jose

>It doesn't have to be pretty (and it won't be!), just knock the worst of it off and get close to a "reference" surface. The planer will then refer off of that, and it is a simple matter of cleaning the surface up.

Re: Hot melt glue solution:

Grant Smith(remove 1 for email)

>Wilbur,

Put a fine bead of hot melt glue down the convex surface near each edge. Then run it over the jointer with the glue side down. The glue will keep it from rocking, and can also be easily jointed away as it gets jointed.

I have used that approach on twisted boards in order to joint to the "happy medium" between rocking one way and the other. The glue acts as a block, but won't hurt the jointer knives.

FWIW,

Grant in Iowa

Yup....just watched that last nite on.....

SanMan

>....YouTube.com - the WoodWhisperer...episode 6 I do believe.

Good stuff Maynard!

SM

Re: Jointer not doing well on convex board face

Pat Evans

>I would use a straight edge sled on my table saw to straighten one edge first.

Use the bandsaw?

Brint K in Atlanta

>How about:

- Set it up on its long edge

- Scribe parallel straight lines from one end to the other, a little farther apart than your your desired final thickness

- Re-saw along the line on your bandsaw (free hand)

That should make it flat enough for the planer to do its job - no?

Re: Shoot, and i thought it was my invention!

Grant Smith(remove 1 for email)

>