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Framing issue

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Framing issue

#1

Framing issue

MaxM

>First off, my house was built in 1910. I have done some extensive remodeling over the past years.

In my basement (also woodshop) I removed 2 support posts (2 2x8's nailed together) that were NOT original to the house to gain more space in the cellar. The posts were inline with the lally column in the cellar directly under two other posts that were in my kitchen on the 1st floor. Years ago I has a steel I-beam installed in the kitchen to remove the 1st floor posts and figured that the 2x's in the cellar could be removed as well. Now I have a bouncy floor in the kitchen. My idea was to install a doubled up Microllam with two lally colums w/footings on either side burried in the walls of my cellar. Uopn further inspection, the underside of the beam(s) is warped and the beam on the left side is doubled up (4 x 6's on flats). And there wouldn't be room for the duct. My other idea was to temporarily support the floor joists and remove the beam all together, then install the Microllam with joist hangers. But the original joists are 6" apart so I would have to laminate 4 or so beams together.

To describe the picture: The top portion is the "side view". On the left are the 2 4x6 beams which lead over to the column, directly above the column is a "T intersection with another 4x6 that leads over to the main center support beam. On the right is one 4x6 beam with space between the subfloor. The dashes are exagerated but show what I mean by the warping. The lower portin shows the floor joists 2' centers and are staggered from either side ( I was thinking about sistering the floor joists as well, but this eliminated that idea.) Also, the 2 beams are butted together past the lally column. The lower portion is the top view.


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Re: Framing issue

#2

Re: Framing issue

bill tindal, E.TN

>Your question is beyond my knowledge but I can offer this advice. It takes times more support strength to make a floor stiff than it does to just make it safe. Good bridging between the joists helps. You may need to consult an engineer to solve the problem.

Re: Framing issue

#3

Ellis Walentine

Go for the gluelams

Ellis Walentine

>I'd pin the joists, replace the existing (longitudinal) beams with one triple gluelam (with additional plywood to bring it out to fill the gap between the joists, then reattach the joists with hangers to the gluelam.

I don't know if your foundation drawing is accurate, but it could be tricky to get the beam into the basement and up onto the foundation wall unless you are thinking of coming in through the side of the house.

An alternate method would be to use shorter lengths of individual beam sections and laminate them in place with lots of framing nails, staggering the joints so you have a rigid beam with no through joints. That way you wouldn't have to punch through the wall.

I'd get an engineer or architect to run a quick beam calculation for you to make sure you are getting enough support for your particular building load. I'd also make sure that the footing under your lally column is adequate, and that the column is cement-filled.

I don't know what that "T" beam is all about. If you need more support for that section of floor, you could add another joist or two. Ask the engineer about that, too.

Good luck. It's a fair amount of work and expense, but it is the best way I can think of to cure that bouncy floor without adding undue obstructions in the basement.

Ellis Walentine, Host

Re: Framing issue

#4

Re: Go for the gluelams - Ellis

MaxM

>Thanks for the response. I plan on using the microllams, maybe 3 2x10's and some ply as you stated. I wasn't going to prop the ends onto the foundation though. I planned on using the cement filled lally colums. Should these be attached to the foundation in any way? Also, for the footings, 2' sq. x 18" deep sufficient? What type of concrete?

Thanks again.

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