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Glue Question

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Glue Question

#1

Lee Gordon

Glue Question

Lee Gordon

>When I went to adjust the hinges to get the door to hang straight on the under-sink cabinet in my kitchen, there was no amount of adjustment that would make it right. Only then did I discover that the stile the door hangs from had partially pulled away from the bottom rail. As you can see from the picture, the stile and rail are connected by means of a pair of (fluted) dowels, which I assume were attached using yellow wood glue. It is totally impractical for me to disassemble these pieces in order to remove the remnants of the old glue. I assume fresh yellow glue will not bond to the residue. What kind of glue would you recommend that I try? Gorilla glue, perhaps?

I figure that if worse comes to worse, I can drill through the side of the stile, drill out the dowels, glue in new ones, and install a couple of plugs, and touch up the finish, but I would prefer a more invisible repair. Thanks for whatever advice you can provide.


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Re: Glue Question

#2

Re: Glue Question *LINK*

Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod

>Lee -

The trash bin visible in the photo is connected to the door. The hinge stile joints are stressed each time the door is cycled. I think the stile has come loose from the cabinet in addition to the loose dowel joint.

I would re-attach all the loose parts with panel adhesive. Use interior glue blocks and/or metal repair strap to reinforce the area. If the cabinet sides are thick enough to accept brads or screws - 3/4" - run some in from the front face and plug the holes. Bob Smalser wrote an article about glues used in repairs which I've referenced below.

Ed


Reglue

Re: Glue Question

#3

Re: Glue Question

john lucas

>Lee Carve some notches in the dowels and use epoxy. They don't have to be big notches just something for the glue to fill into. Ideally you would also scratch some horizontal lines in the hole to also act as a mechanical bond bit if you can't do that the notches in the dowel will help.

What I hate the worst is when people fix this sort of repair with a nail. It makes it very difficult for me to repair it. If you decide to go with a mechanical fix like this use a tooth pick or even a slightly larger dowel and drill through the face and dowel to form a locking dowel type joint.

Re: Glue Question

#4

Re: Glue Question

Barry Irby

>I agree with Ed. It looks like more is going on here than the style to rail joint. Look at what appears to be a dado that has come apart back in the cabinet beside the trash pull out. What is that? The style should have been attached to the cabinet end. How could it have moved 1/2" or more if it has not come loose from the end? Or maybe the end has moved with it and that is how the dado came loose. You may have a bigger repair than you thought.

Time to sell the house.

Re: Glue Question

#5

Lee Gordon

Re: Glue Question

Lee Gordon

>Ed ...

Actually, the trash bin is not connected to the door; it is screwed to the floor of the cabinet.

Thanks for the link to the glue article. I don't know for sure what type of glue was used in the original assembly of my cabinets (they are American Woodmark, circa 1985) but I am assuming it was some sort of PVA glue. Unless I have misunderstood the article, it would appear that a few drops of Crazy Glue might be the first thing I should try.

Re: Glue Question

#6

Lee Gordon

Re: Glue Question

Lee Gordon

>That horizontal dado is where the floor of the cabinet is supposed to sit. It has not completely separated, so the connection is intact at the back of the cabinet. There is also a smaller vertical dado into which a couple of clips are placed and screwed into the face frame, holding it onto the box. The face frames of my cabinets are solid oak but the bottoms and sides are 1/2" laminated particle board. Not exactly top of the line cabinetry.

I'm thinking that whatever glue I use on that dowel joint, I might also reinforce with a couple of pocket screws.

Re: Glue Question

#7

Re: Glue Question

Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod

>" ... the trash bin is not connected to the door ..."

Oops! Then the question is still open as to why the corner failed. Can't hurt to try the CA. Good luck!

Ed

Re: Glue Question

#8

pocket screw

bill tindal, E.TN

>I would reglue but not rely on the glue holding. I would strengthen the joint with a pocket screw.

Re: Glue Question

#9

carl

Re: pocket screw

carl

>Hi,I would not use a mechcanicle fastern you risk spliting the wood and than it becomes very difficult to fix.I would first try to scrape the dowel clean and the hole.I had very good luck with the Chair Docter glues,and address the problem with dado coming apart.Also look into why the cab.moved in the first place,hope i was able to help, Carl

Re: Glue Question

#10

Re: Glue Question

jmohnike

>The first thing that I would do is apply a drop of water to each dowel and see if it is absorbed into the wood. (It does not look like there is much if any glue on the dowels from the pic.) If the water is absorbed then I would use a product like Chair Lock. Have good results with this method in the past.

I can not tell, for sure, from the pics, but there does not appear to be any gule in the flutes of the dowels, and the joint may have been missed during glue up.

Joe

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