Planer question

Re: Planer question

Pat Schupbach

>Snipe is a small cut made by the cutter head on the trailing end of your board.

Re: Planer question

Tom MacGregor

>If the board doesn't stay dead level as it leaves the plane the cutterhead can gouge the stock and the last few inches are not as thick as the rest. That's snipe - it turns part of your wood into scrap. If you have enough room building a long outfeed table will minimize the effect.

Re: Planer question

del schisler

>i have the ridgid Model TP1300LS It has a cutter head lock that hold's it from moving It has no snipe Or at least mine doesn't It is the only planer that has this lock I would buy another one when and if this one wear's out I just changes the blade's for the first time in about a yr. They were getting a little dull I have planes lot's of board feet As far as 2 speed's I guess it would be nice But have been in wood working as long as i can remember And haven't needed 2 speeds If course i haven't tried 2 speed's Lots of new tec. stuff Here is a discription

The TP1300LS includes the following features: 15 AMP/120V motor with overload protection; 13 In. x 6 In. cutting capacity; Snipe reduction with sure-cut lock; Super fine finish with 66 cuts per inch; Dual-edge, quick change knives. The IND-I-CUT� depth measurement system instantly measures cutting depth before each pass. The Repeat-a-cut� depth stop provides 8 adjustable depth stops to precisely plane work pieces to desired thickness up to 1-3/4 In. thick. The built-in cord wrap keeps cord out of the way when planer is not in use. On-board tool and knife storage keeps knives and knife-changing tools conveniently stored for quick and easy access. Sof-touch� controls provide ergonomic knobs that are comfortable and user-friendly. Includes knife changing tools, extra knife set, and owner's manual.

� 15 amp 120V motor with overload protection

� 13 In. x 6 In. cutting capacity

� Snipe reduction with sure-cut lock

� Super fine finish with 66 cuts per inch

Internet/Catalog #100083773

Store In-Stock SKU # 429753

Re: Planer question

Barry Irby

>The planer has in feed and out feed rollers. They hold the board level and a constant distance from the cutter head. When you feed the board in you may allow the lead end to kick up slightly until the out feed roller presses it down. The cutter head Snipes the end until the board is pressed down. Same thing on the trailing end if the board droops after it comes out from under the in-feed roller.

The length of the snipe is determined by the distance between the rollers. The depth is determined by the setup of the planer and the amount of "droop".

Long in-feed and out feed tables help substantially by helping you feed the board level. Locking cutter heads may help too.

Stock prep can help reduce the effects. For instance, If you have boards that have ends that are not square and have minor splits in them, plane them before you clean up the ends. The snipe is usually between to and three inches long. If you cut it off, you are also trimming the ragged ends. Also, If you need a bunch of pieces say a foot long, plane long boards and then cut them up. That way, you cut the snipe off the ends of the long pieces and cut several "perfect" pieces out of the middle.

Also, if your planer only produces snipe that is a few hundredths of an inch deep, you can sand it off with hand sanders or drum sanders like a Performax. (Actually, you would be sanding the rest of the piece down to the sniped part.)

Pic of Normal Feed 

Mike Fitterling

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Pic of Snipe on Infeed 

Mike Fitterling

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Pic of Snipe on Outfeed 

Mike Fitterling

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What does it mean?

Tony - Memphis

>I can't add much to what everyone has presented, but I will quantify their comments....I used to have a Delta planer (12" lunchbox). I had to plan an extra 4-5" in every board I planed with it so I could cut the snipe out. So, it is a big deal if you can avoid it. I recently upgraded to the DeWalt (735 I think it is) and it rarely snipes and then not much. So, no more wasted lumber. Anyway, planing is kkind of just work, but it can be very rewarding to see what's underneath all the gunk on the outside and then to get a nice flat board too.

Tony

Pic of Snipe on Infeed No Head Twist 

Mike Fitterling

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Explanation

Mike Fitterling

>I guess I should explain the pics a little. The first pic is how a piece should move through the cutterhead ideally. The board is flat against the bed and the cutterhead is straight.

Snipe is produced when the end of the board is unsupported by the feed rollers on either side and the end tilts up into the cutters. This is due to the end of the board being unsupported and/or insufficient pressure on the rollers holding down the board against the bed. This levering action can tilt the end of the board into the cutters and/or twist the cutterhead so that the cutters are lowered onto the end of the board. The pics are exagerrated, of course.

The second pic shows snipe being produced on the infeed side when the cutterhead assembly twists; making a good argument for planers with cutterhead locks.

Next shows the planer sniping as the board exits due to an unsupported leading end.

Last shows the same but on the infeed side with the trailing end unsupported.

On planers with bed rollers, these adjusted incorrectly can add to the problem.

Re: Planer question

Joe in a Cleveland suburb

>David I can't add much either. It's been explained well enough that even I get it.

One tip I read here a few years ago was to add slight upward pressure to the board as it exits the planer - or adjust the out feed table to point upwards ever so slightly. With every board that goes through my little DeWalt lunchbox planer, I lift up on the board as it exits. Just a tiny bit of pressure. I never get snipe doing this. At least not that I can see. Seems to work for me.

Joe

Re: Planer question

Bruce, a MN Galoot

>Some of the newer models (can't tell you which ones) have cutterhead locks that prevent the cutterhead from rotating as shown in Mike's #2 pic. That pretty much eliminates sniping.

Bruce, who has one of the first Deltas that feels free to snipe at will.

Re: Planer question

CARL BARTON

>I too have the Ridged planner and I love it. I had a Delta for about six months and everytime I turned around I was having issues with. Finally one night I just put it away and bought the Ridged and have not looked back and would buy another in a heart beat.

Carl

You can reduce snipe

Bruce, a MN Galoot

>by the way you use the planer, too.

* run wood through by butting the second piece against the end of the first.

* if the boards are narrow enough, stagger them as you load them into the machine. That is, start one board, and after a couple feet, start the second one to the side. The cutterhead is already held in position by the first board and that will prevent any snipe from happening.

* run a sacrificial short board through first and last.

Or, all three methods.

Bruce

Re: Planer question

James Dillon in MD

>David,

Great responses and pics to your question. To minimize snipe even more, you might consider making the bed of your new planer even longer by building a longer support bed. I made mine from MDF (cut to the width of your planer bed) with two strips of wood glued onto the bottom of the MDF to "trap" it between the front of your planers real bed and the outfeed side. Then wax it really well and you are good-to-go. The only downside is that it reduces the capacity of your planer, thickness wise. But that has never been a problem - at least for me. Oh, and it may make any dial indicator on your planer inaccurate, but again that is no big problem. Good luck with your new purchase.

Jim