>I want/need to build a Master-Bed for my wife and I�while currently we have a queen sized bed-and are very happy with it � we were thinking about one of those �adjustable foundation� beds, and the majority of them are made in 2 halves so they can be adjusted individually. Not sure about storage under the bed; can go either way.
Questions:
1. Does anyone have any photos and/or plans of a beautiful master-bed?
2. What is the best way to build the bed (joints?) so it can be broken-down and moved etc?
3. With the height of the foundation and the mattress, perhaps the drawers make the bed too high?
>Phil, Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. (And I don't want to be a Bee Holder, arh, arh, arh!) I posted a picture of a bed I built for my son a few days ago. It a Rake or Mission style bed. If you want to check it out, just search for "messages posted by" Barry Irby. I like the bed, but wish the head board had a bit more "flair". Whatever that is.
Do read the part about the bolted connection I used. IF you are interested I will draw it up and post it or send it to you. Everyone here suggested the bolted connections were much better than any of the "Bed Hanger" connections I have to agree. I was very pleased with the solid feel of the rail to post joints.
I also struggled with the under bed storage idea. I built the rails 7" off the floor. I went to mattress stores and scoped out the different types. Some of them are two feet thick or more. In some cases the top of the mattress is so high you need a step stool or little ladder to get into bed. If you were to fall out, your chute wouldn't have time to open and you would hit something important on the stool.
Another thing I struggled with was the dimensions of the mattresses. Mine was queen sized and I settled on 60 1/2" by 81". The mattress was 60 by 80. The extra inch on the length was to allow for quilts or comforters. Check out the picture of how well my son made the bed and you can see just how effective that was.
>About to make a twin bed for my son, but the regular mortised hangars ought to be sufficient for that. But next up is a king size bed for my wife and I. I am thinking we may need a bit more strength.
We wound up giving up on under the bed storage, except for shoes and other small stuff. With the new thicker mattresses, I would have to take a running leap to jump into the bed if it were much higher.
Personally, I prefer the hangers to the bolts. Bolts work loose and need tightening ever so often (PIA!!)and bolts want to twist. I put dowels in the legs and rails to prevent the twisting, and darned if the dowels didn't get bent!! No questions please about what goes on in that bed ;^).
>When I made our queen size bed, we dcided on drawers under the mattress. I made a frame with a flat plywood surface on the top for the mattress to lay on. Some of the new mattress/box spring or foundation combinations get quite high. When we upgraded our mattress a few years ago, we also bought a new foundation. It was basically a box covered in fabric, not the traditional box spring type of foundation. LOML almost needed a ladder to get into bed. We sent back the foundation and let the mattress rest directly on the base with the drawers in it. The height is good, we still have our storage and the matteress is fully supported.
I did nearly make the proverbial boat in the basement when I made it though. I didn't account for the thickness (height) of the completed base so there wasn't room to make the swing into our bedroom from the hallway. I was able to get it in by going into the bathroom first and then into our bedroom, but had to take out the vanity for clearance. If we ever move, the same thing will have to occur to get it out or else we will see the bedframe with the house. If I were to make another one I would make the drawer units in two sections rather than one big section like I did. This would make moving and handling it much easier.
