Resaw question?

Re: Resaw question?

Brian Hahn in SW Wisconsin

>First, I'd use roller stands for both infeed and outfeed. They make the pieces a lot more manageable.

If you're comfortable handling a 10 foot length with the roller stands, go for it. Otherwise I'd cut the longer ones down to a manageable length.

Easy

Jim in Burlington On

>Some of the beams are probably 1/4 sawn pick thru and saw those up for your top. It's the same procedure no matter what size you need to resaw joint 2 edges saw then joint that face then saw and so on.

Way gummy...

John in New Mexico

>I made a bunch of wedges for window and door installation out of our floor joist scraps. Some of it was local pine, and man did the blade load up quick. Had to give the tires a good cleaning too. Other than the pitch problem, I'd say go for it!

John

Re: Resaw question?

Jim Swank

>I'd add a third roller stand on the outfeed if you can manage it, set about 1/8" lower than the other 2 and 3-4 ft behind the first outfeed roller. That will let you balance the longer length better on the outfeed side, when you pretty well have to walk around the saw while still cutting.

Re: Way gummy...

Falberg saw Co

>Ditto! Go for it; but if the going gets gummy - the pros use Pam. Sparingly. For a beam that small I'd use a (straight) 2" x 12" plank with an improvised fence. Clamp it right to the table. Any blade over 1/4" W will do.

What I did

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>Never used heart pine, I assume it will gum up the blade and saw good...

I resawed 10-11 feet long birch for my house moulding project. I don't like roller stands, what I did was make a long infeed/outfeed table out of some melamine shelving, that I clamped to the bandsaw table. I put legs at each end of the "table" to support them, and I was in business. Worked great.

HTH,

DC

Re: Resaw question?

Barry Irby

>Thanks for the encouragement; I have been storing these beams for thirty years. I think its time to make something.

Re: What I did

Falberg saw Co

>I made this transport out of laminated aluminum but it might work as well with formica-laminated plywood. It's basically a channel in a sleeve with the three-point clamp wedged between the inner surfaces of the inner rail. This same idea could be manifested with an improvised angle instead of the channel I used for squaring logs. As crude as it was (and labor intensive) it is an *extremely* accurate approach. I still use it and no, it's not for sale at any price. If I had to do it again, I would have used formica-on-plywood. It's 12' long and will accomodate an 8' log or beam.

Re: What I did

Falberg saw Co

>This is a detail of the clamp system. Two sharpened 3/8" threaded rods on a knob oppose a single, similar screw at the other end allow you to position your cut precisely and holds it at whatever attitude you choose. Again, this could be done with plywood, but aluminum turned out to be easier in this instance.

Call Iturra Design @ 888-722-7078 and......

Art Silva

>order #09347 Promaster 3, 1/2" x 105", 3 tooth Carbide tip blade, and one of Louie's high tension springs #10021D. These two items will make short work on those 30 year old beauties. Good Luck, Art

Re: What I did

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>Pretty neat, similar in principle to what I made, but more sophisticated than my setup.

Thanks for the pic,

DC

Re: What I did

Barry Irby

>I like both ideas and had thought about something along those lines. My "problem" is that I have about six or eight beams that need resawing and a really small shop. I don't do this often enough to justify an elaborate setup. This is a conundrum.

First thing, buy kerosene.

Basil

>If you have real rich heart pine, buy some kerosene or diesel fuel. I'd worry about fire hazzard less with diesel fuel. You'll need it to clean your blade and wheels ever so often. Clean blade and wheels with simple green when you're finished.

Be careful not to ignite your shop. The sawdust will burn like it has been soaked in kerosene even if you don't use kerosene.

... after the first board, you may want to hunt up a local sawyer.

Ditto

Mike Fitterling

>I worked with a supplier who specilalizes in old growth heart-pine and went to their mill. They use diesel.

Conundrums

Ellis Walentine

>You will have to rig up infeed and outfeed supports, no matter what. They can be as simple as scraps of plywood with a cleat on one end to clamp to the saw table and a chunk of 2x4 to support the ends. From there, a point fence and some elbow grease will do the trick.

A bigger conundrum might be trying to get quartered and rift stock from this timber. Your beams are going to have their grain oriented in the right direction, or else you're going to have to tilt the table to get the cuts you want. Then your outfeed table setup is going to be mighty tough to rig up.

Ellis Walentine, Host

How bout WD-40...

John in New Mexico

>Smells a lot better than diesel.

Or even turpentine, actually gives the shop a fresh scent!

Re: What I did

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>Oh, my setup doesn't stay on the machine, I took it off when the job was finished. I made my "table" hinged at the middle, so it doesn't take much space when not in use.

DC