Table saw adjustment - How do I ...
Joe in a Cleveland suburb
>make the table level with the blade? This is on a Grizzly 1023SL.
To prepare for trying to make as accurate as I can miters, I thought it might be a good idea to double check thing on my ts. I pulled out a FWW magazine that is a couple years old. There's an article on ts tune -ups. One of the steps is tilting the blade over to 45 degrees. Using the right miter slot, set the dial gage to zero at the front of the blade with a mark, rotate the blade and move the gage to the back and to your mark. I get about 8-9 thousands difference. The FWW article says to shim it. Okay, in the front or back or sides? The front? Do you think for shim stock I could use slices of a coffee can and/or pop can?
Would this explain less than perfectly clean crosscuts even using my Freud F80 Crosscut blade that has recently been sharpened by Scott Whitting? I haven't been getting clean crosscuts for a while now. When the saw was new, I was able to get super clean crosscuts. Rips with my Systematic Glue line rip blade are great. A couple years ago I replaced the arbor bearings with expensive ones from Bearing Inc. Probably didn't need to as it didn't seem to really help.
When I checked to make sure the left miter slot is parallel to the blade (with the blade at 90 degrees) the gage remand at zero front and back. It seems to be dead on.
BTW, I have the dial gage thingy stuck to my Delta tenoning jig base. Seems solid with no side to side slop. That's how I'm doing the measuring.
Thanks for any advice/suggestions.
Joe