Electrical OT

Re: Electrical OT

Larry Clinton in Frankfort, Indiana

>Outside chance - if it on a separate circuit - might change the switch. You may have an intermittent switch or a bad contact in the switch causing a voltage drop.

I too would like to know the answer...

John in New Mexico

>I had the same sort of problems in my garage/shop when I lived in Tucson. It was so frustrating that my plans for lighting the theoretical future shop here do not include fluorescent lights. Sorry I can't help, just commiserate.

Re: Electrical OT

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>Check all of the connections from the circuits to the bulb sockets. I had a fixture that ate bulbs. When I installed a new ballast to fix the problem I found an overheated high resistance connection at one socket(where the bulbs failed). Fixed that and the problem is gone. Along with the flickering that came before the bulb quit.JR

Re: Electrical OT

Ken Oakley-Sunny St. Cloud, Fla.

>Both oon same switch, same circuit.

Re: Electrical OT

Al Stokka - Cambridge, Iowa

>Ken,

I'm assuming two things:

1. That your kitchen is heated. IE: the fixture is not operating in an unusually low-temperature atmoshpere. (Hey, I've not been to Florida so, what do I know about the weather down there?)

2. The fixture does NOT have a starter(s).

Flickering (swirling or spiraling) is caused by one (or more) of three things:

1. New lamps. It is normal for some lamps to produce the effect for a few hours after being installed. If the swirling continues, look for another cause.

2. Low temperature.

3. Low voltage. With the power off (DUH!) Check all the electrical connections between the incoming power line, the ballast, and the bulb, incuding the bulb contacts. The lamp holder is as item often overlooked. It could have corroded contacts, be cracked, or simply be worn to the point it no longer makes firm contact with the bulb pin(s).

Al

Re: Electrical OT

Barry Irby

>I would check or repalce the sockets the bulbs mount into. I have cleaned mine with a small piece of sandpapaer and improved the connections enough to kill the flicker, for a while. Also check to be sure you installed the bulbs exaclty as they should be. I have managed to get one pin outside the socket and they still work, but not well.

Re: Electrical OT

Scott Crumpton

>Check the ground on the fixture. Also, consider a different brand of bulbs.

agreed

bill tindal, E.TN

>if the ballast is for sure good and the lamps are new and it still flickers, then there is a poor connection somewhere, and probably at the lamp socket.

I have found electronic ballasts more trouble free

Re: Electrical OT

Ken Oakley-Sunny St. Cloud, Fla.

>We have the Central A/C going today trying to keep temp at comfortable 76. There are no starters. The tube receptors are one thing I haven't checked because the recessed area the fixture sits in is so tight I may have to remove the whole fixture to remove the recptors. Looking for an easy way out. I guess I will bite the bullet and do it because if I have to replace the whole fixture with a new one I will have to take this one out anyway. Oh well, another entry on the Honey Do list.

Re: Electrical OT

Ken Oakley-Sunny St. Cloud, Fla.

>I tested the bulbs in the adjoining fixture in the ceiling and they work fine. The ground is also the ground for both fixtures. Staryting to think it is the sockets,(receptors).

Re: Electrical OT

Larry Marker in Alabama

>The common ground may be fine, but where it attaches to the bad fixture is a connection that needs to be checked. If it is a little loose or corroded, you could have this kind of prroblem.

Larry

Re: Electrical OT

DB

>Since the fixture is in the kitchen there is a good chance that some grease has gotten into the fixture. What I would do is degrease the whole fixture along with the contacts.