How to remove a stuck bearing

Sounds like a job for... *LINK*

Kent in Emmaus, PA

>a bearing puller!

This is basically the same idea as you had using clamps, but a puller will appply much more force withou slipping off.

I have the one linked below from JC Whitney. It's only been used 2-3 times, but each time it was a job that absolutely couldn't have been done any other way.


Puller kit

Re: How to remove a stuck bearing

Larry Clinton in Frankfort, Indiana

>I would bite the bullet and go to a local automotive parts store or hardware and purchase or rent a 3 jaw bearing puller. These, unlike jury rigged clamps and wood, put a pull on all sides of the bearing evenly. When pulling with this type puller, you screw the puller center screw up very tight and "rap" the end of the puller shaft. Normally almost any bearing will pull off without any other action. As a retired Engineer, I have been involved with many stuck bearings, the first action to be taken is to pull the bearing evenly and strongly toward the end of the shaft. Heat can be used - but I usually do that as a last resort as it is only effective if it can be applied quickly enough that you heat the bearing before the shaft becomes hot. It can be used as an aid if the puller isn't succesful. If you do use heat be sure to keep the spindle cool with wet rags etc., as the heat may remove any tempering from the spindle shaft and leave it soft.

Re: How to remove a stuck bearing

wilbur

>Thanks for the info. With my clamp and wood jig, I'm pretty sure I was getting even pressure around the bearing, but I didn't try tapping the shaft at that point.

Just so I'm clear, the usual procedure is to use the bearing puller to put pressure on the bearing, and then tap on the shaft? How hard can I tap? And will the bearing suddenly come loose and fly off the shaft?

Re: How to use a bearing puller

Grant Smith

>Wilbur,

While a clamp may appear to be applying as much force as you could imagine being applied via a puller, it likely isn't. Here's why:

The puller will have fine threads on the part you turn, while your clamp probably has either Acme or coarse threads. This means that for each turn you make with the shaft, the Acme or coarse threads travel further, thereby reducing the amount of force proportionately. A puller with fine threads can exert much more force, plus it is pulling equally.

I recommend calling local auto parts stores to find one that loans or rents tools, then get the largest puller that will fit on the bearing and try to remove it that way. You can tap on the end of the puller once you have tightented the puller as tightly as you can, or you can put an impact driver on the puller and tighten it further.

If this approach fails, take the assembly to an automotive machine shop and have it pressed off. They'll likely have a 20+ ton hydraulic press and the right steel jigging to make short work of it. And it'll be about $10 or less to have them remove the bearing. Keep the old bearing or at least write down the information on its races and check your yellow pages for "bearing supply" and get your new bearing...which may need to be pressed on the shaft. I would definately recommend using a hydraulic press and NOT a hammer and socket to install the new bearing. Maybe even get the new bearing before you take it to a machine shop and have them do both operations for one money.

The only time I'd heat the bearing is if the hydraulic press solution fails, then heat it quickly while it is under pressure in the press...something which they could do for you too. You will need an oxy-acetylene torch for that job...propane would not likley heat it quickly or to a high enough temperature.

This is commonly done on machinery, and should be an easy job for any machine shop.

Regards,

Grant in Iowa

Re: How to remove a stuck bearing

Kent in Emmaus, PA

>"And will the bearing suddenly come loose and fly off the shaft?"

Doubtful. As a general safety rule, I wouldn't put fragile body parts directly in line with the axis of pull, but there's not much stored energy to cause anything dramatic.

Tap as hard as necessary, but no more. :)

Re: How to remove a stuck bearing

Rob Stokes in North Vancouver

>Wilbur - I used a large three jaw puller (available at your auto-parts store) to pull the bearings off the arbor of my 1955 Boice Crane saw. I put them back on the same way but if you do this and want to re-use the bearings, be really (really) careful where the jaws end up. As mentioned, getting the pressure on the puller loaded up and then tapping the end of the puller usually works well.

A machine shop will have a press etc. to remove them as well, and if you buy replacement bearings form that same shop, the cost of the eE and Re will be minimal.

If your plan is to replace the bearings, make sure you have the new ones before you remove the old. Walker Turner was/is known for using strange bearing sizes and matching them up can be a real pain in the butt. It would really suck to remove an old but serviceable bearing and destroying it only to find you can't get a replacement.

Good luck!

Rob

If you are buying the bearings local

Phil Joines Krum Texas

>Take the whole thing to them and let them do the swap.

Re: How to remove a stuck bearing

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>If and when you get the old bearing off the arbor, to install the new one, you have to apply pressure to the race that has the resistance to movement. That is the inner race resists the installation so the pressure to put it on the arbor must be on the inner race using a sleeve /piece of pipe/ old deep socket or such that only puts pressure on the inner race. If the bearing is being put on a shaft and the outer race is used to move the bearing it can damage the bearing. I hope I have given a good description ...If you aren't sure repost and get it right so as to save some heart ache.JR (b.t.w. all bets are off during removal...get it off any way you can:-))

Re: How to remove a stuck bearing

Don Evans

>Follow Joe's advise for installing the new bearing, but also put the shaft in the freezer overnight. This ONLY the shaft so it will contract a tiny bit.

Have everything else ready to go to install the new bearing before removing it from freezer, then work quickly and bearing will go on easier.

Do NOT heat the new bearing.

Don

Re: How to remove a stuck bearing

Bruce Wrenn

>Bearing heaters are a common machine shop tool. Most are induction heaters. They mainly heat the inner race of the bearing, not the balls, seals etc. Years ago I saw the railroad guys putting new tires on a steam engine wheel. They had a circle of fire heating tire, and when it got hot enough, they just lowered it onto wheel. As it cooled, it contracted and was on there. That is until same circle of fire was used to reheat it for removal. My first choice would be a hydraulic press at a machine shop, or auto repair place. Have new bering in hand, and press it on at same time. Once and done.

If all else fails, cutting torch.

Basil

>Someone with experience, good eyesight and a steady hand can cut the inner race off the shaft without nicking or overheating the shaft. Done it many times myself in the past.

If it comes down to this, e-mail me and I'll try to describe it to you.

Basil

Re: If all else fails, cutting torch.

Larry Clinton in Frankfort, Indiana

>Your right Basil, however this isn't a task for a beginner - I've done this but didn't want to suggest it to someone with no experience (I have nicked a couple shafts before I learned). I also have used an arc welder on large bearing outer races to remove them when stuck - after the inner race breaks loose, and the balls fall out. This works well on 3" and larger races. Don't know if you have done it, but a bead laid around the inside of the race will contract and come out pretty easy after the weld cools. We had to do this to the 125 HP motor bearings on our air compressor motors at the place I used to work. With a good puller, I can't remember the last time I couldn't get a small bearing off a spindle / shaft like the one he described. Big equipment is a different story.