>I'm looking to buy a quality full-face respirator for spray finishing. Of course, I'd like one that does everything from water-based to lacquer. What would you guys recommend? I'm looking to spend around a hundred bucks.
>I like the 3M 7000 series Full-face. It's a reasonably comfortable unpowered respirator. Powered ones cost a lot more. Check w/ your local safety supplier.
>Why a full-face? I use a half-face for spraying (mostly wb, but some shellac too) and it works fine for me (I don't wear contacts-don't know if contacts are an issue, but I've never had any problems with stuff getting in my eyes).
I used a full-face respirator years ago (chloropicrin fumigation of soil for plant pathology research, not that it matters) and found it pretty hot and uncomfortable (granted I was mostly working during the warm months)-I find my half-mask gets warm enough.
Regardless of the mask you choose, you want a good organics cartridge with prefilters. Keep the organics cartridges sealed up in a bag between uses.
>The solvents in water based finishes are not completely safe. They are probably safer than solvent based laquer thinner (although the sources I looked at said that "no studies" had been done to determine if they were cancer causing; and they do not have a long term track record), but look up:
Dipropylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether
Propylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether
Ethylene Glycol Methyl Ether
All of these are used as solvents in water based finishes. The first two aren't "very" toxic, but the last one is. My understanding is that the last one is being phased out, but some WB finishes still use it.
When spraying their WB laquer (which uses only the first two solvents according to the MSDS), Target recommends the use of an organic vapour full face respirator; not just a particulate filter mask.
>Even the best particulate (paper) masks filter out mostly the stuff that isn't terribly harmful to you. With spray mists, the smallest droplets go right through those masks and are the most harmful by collecting deep in the lungs. And that's before you even get into the effects of solvents. A close friend of mine who used to paint with me spent some time in the industrial hygiene industry working on air quality monitoring systems. He had access to quite a bit of research on the subject and basically gave me the what-for about my dust masks. Now I wear a half-mask respirator when I spray.
As for a full face respirator for $100, let me know when you find one. They're usually $150+ the few times I've looked. One thing I'd be concerned about is the durability of the clear plastic shield--how easily does it scratch/clean/etc.?
>Do you know much about N100 masks? I currently use Moldex N95 dust/mist masks for particulate protection, but next time am planning on buying N100 masks even though they're twice the price. Are they effective on very fine particulate?
ps. I won't be using these for spraying; just for particulate protection.
>N100 is essentially a HEPA filter & I believe provides filtration down to about 0.2 microns, whereas most better shop DC systems are down to about 1.0 micron - maybe a few at 0.5 microns. I have personally switched and I believe that my lungs & throat stay a lot clearer than with the standard N95 I previously used, particularly with exotic (toxic) woods.
I am fortunate to have an industrial hygenist/health physicist working for me at my day job and he highly recommends the N100 for woodworking (which I wish was my real day job, but unfortunately I like to eat on a regular basis).
I believe that they are well worth the difference in price. 3M & Molex are 2 very reliable manufacturers.