Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Blade recommendations
Howard Pollack
>Hi- I'm doing a project that includes a good deal of hardwood plywood. I'd like, of course, to minimize chipping of the face veneer on the exit side of the cut. Would folks please the recommend blades that have produced the best results for them. I have a 10" unisaw and for a 6-1/2" circular saw? Thanks -Howard
Re: Blade recommendations
Robby Wright in San Marcos, CA
>I can't talk to the portable saw, but I use a Forrest Duraline AT when I work with veneers and melamine, and it is a good blade. Cut edges on melamine are perfect and dangerous sharp. No noticable problems with hardwood plywood either. Even makes a pretty nice crosscut blade for woods up to one inch thick.
Robby Wright
Re: Blade recommendations
David Yoho
>Howard, most any good quality saw blade will do a good job for you. Like many folks, I use a 40-tooth Forrest Woodworker II on mine. One thing that will help make a difference in splintering is to use a zero clearance insert when cutting veneered plywoods.
David
Re: Blade recommendations
arw01
>My blade opening with my WWII is not quite 0, and perhaps 0 would help, but I get some chipping with my WWII on plywood veneers. This is a subject I need to deal with soon also. If you buy something, let me know how it works for you?
Alan
Re: Blade recommendations
Johanna
>You might want to make a bunch of zero clearance inserts. I have them at 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 5/8" to handle regular and dado cuts at 90 degrees. The wider ones can be used for angled cuts as well. My inserts are all made of plywood.
Re: Blade recommendations
Diz
>I've just started using new Freud "Fusion" blade. Worked some plywood for tablesaw jigs and was very,very pleased w/ result. I mostly work w/ solid woods and its doing a great job with this as well. It's a general purpose blade which may be more useful than a dedicated laminate blade - wouldn't have to switch blades when you switch materials.
Re: Blade recommendations
James Dillon in MD
>Howard,
I second the Forrest Duraline AT blade. I cut a lot of hardwood plywood (1/4 and 3/4 inch) for a kitchen redo and it was great. While it produced no chip-out on either the entrance or exit side, I did try to cut with the good side up and used a freshly made zero-clearance insert. I've also used it to cut small jewelry box components, miters etc (in conjunction with a sled) and it worked well with no splintering. My 2 cents. Good luck.
Jim