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Finished the chair..... and it broke. Help!

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Finished the chair..... and it broke. Help!

#1

Finished the chair..... and it broke. Help!

Jay G

>Any idea how to fix this without restripping/reupholstering the whole thing? I finally finished repairing, refinishing, and installing leather into a white oak rocker and it broke across the main vertical portion of the back where the arms connect. I'll try to attach a picture, but this is my first post.

In case the photo doesn't work, I'll try to describe it further. The arm of the chair has a dowel that penetrates through the back of the chair across the cross section of the vertical back (main beam). The break (marked on picture as a red line) appears to start on the back of the upright cross section, but doesn't appear to have completely broken through on the front of the cross upright section where the arm runs into the vertical upright.

The chair was made in about 1912 and is made of white oak. I used transtint (water) and shellac to finish it. I contemplated fixing the break by routing a slot approximately 1.5 inches above to 1.5 inches below the break line and then creating a white oak plug (rounded with a bull nose bit), gluing, clamping, and refinishing. I'm a bit concerned that this method will not be strong enough for a main beam (vertical upright). My other hesitation is that with the dowel and fill material, I may get quite a bit of chip out when I route it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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Re: Finished the chair..... and it broke. Help!

#2

Re: Finished the chair..... and it broke. Help!

Brad Patch

>Antique oak chairs construction methods virtually make failure inevitable. Screw or dowel holes remove a lot of material from high stress areas. Over the decades the oak dries,looses much of its strength and breaks result.

I have repaired many of these breaks and I think that your method is on the right track. I set up my plunge router on a platform that is clamped to the chair, I then route a 1/2 inch slot into which I glue in a hard maple spline. Keep in mind that the length of the repair you have in mind is probably not long enough. One and a half inch above the crack may intersect with the mortise for the horizontal rail, best to route past the rail. Be carefull not to drill through maple spline for dowels or screws. If the slot is carefully milled and the spline is properly fitted it will result in satisfactory and strong repair.

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