Re: Ducting diameter dilemma *LINK*
Bob Dodge
>Hi Ellis,
Using the proper size of pipe with your dc, can yield dramatic improvements. 4" pipe is ok with very short "direct" hook-ups, but not good for duct-runs to a stationary small-shop dc. You're limiting yourself to roughly 400 CFM at the hoods of those machines that have a single 4" port. Even using a 6" main won't help get you an efficient set-up. Here's an example.
In June/2000, American Woodworker Magazine, published test-results for a group of dc's. The top-performer in the test was a Jet DC-1200 w/12" impeller, and twin 1 micron filters. That dc managed to pull a "claimed" 1025 CFM through a 10 ft length of 6" pipe. Now, they also tested it "under load", to simulate a small duct-network. Thet used 20 feet of 6" pipe, then reduced to a 6 foot length of 4" flex, and a single 90 degree elbow. Airflow dropped to 555 CFM, and that was probably an optimistic reading at best. This would not provide the required 685 CFM that the 6" pipe needs to produce a waste-suspension velocity of 3500 FPM.
You need an appropriate "balance" between your dc and the machine-hoods, if you're going to optimize your set-up. With most small-shop dc's, 5" pipe is essential. Buying 4" pipe because it's "cheap", or "readily available", is a choice that ends up costing you in performance.
There's really nothing worth saying beyond identifying what your choice is; buy "cheap", or, "do it right". Your Delta 50-760 has plenty of suction to handle even a 6" main to your table-saw with 2-point collection (base, and overarm blade-cover). For all your other machines with single 4" ports, run a 5" pipe directly to those hoods, and you should be a very happy camper. You can reasonably expect a 50% improvement in airflow at those single 4" hoods. Instead of 350-400 CFM, you'll be flowing 550-600 CFM and more (depending on hood type).
Bob
AWW Magazine Test