Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Flooring--Any Suggestions?
Rod Rentz
>I have some heart pine I want to use for the floor of my office. It's only 1/2 in. thick and likely too thin for tongue and groove. I've seen it nailed with square cut nails (nice rustic look) and screwed and plugged. I don't think movement will be a big problem as the lumber came out of a house that was built in 1890 and is probably well-dried.
Re: Flooring--Any Suggestions?
Steve Schoene
>You don't mention the width of the boards, but I would point out that movement is always a consideration. Being well dried once doesn't prevent it from swelling in higher humidity seasons or locations.
Re: Flooring--Any Suggestions?
Barry Irby
>I agree with Steve. Dry is a relative term and wood never really stops aquiring and giving up moisture.
Have you thought of gluing it? Not realy and advocate of doing that, but there are some thinset type mastics that will do a good job. Some of them tend to stay soft and allow the floor to move over time. I bet you think I am going to tell you what they are, but I'm not, because I don't know. Maybe someone will suggest soem thy had good luck with.
I still think I would want T&G or shiplap to keep the edges from being open to the subfloor.
Re: Flooring--Any Suggestions?
James Dillon in MD
>Rod,
We have one room with regular 3/4 inch T&G heartwood pine flooring random width (3-6 inches) that we laid and finished ourselves. We used normal flooring nails and screws with pegs. It is gorgeous, but soft and the dog pack has made a lot of marks in it. I would suggest for your office one of those plastic sheets under the desk chair or some good pads on the chair legs.
The suggestion by Barry for a shiplap type joint for the 1/2 inch stuff sounds like a good idea. Both Laticrete and Mapei make thinsets with polymer additives (both premixed and not premixed) that are intended to be used over solid plywood subflooring to allow a slight bit of expansion and contraction. Maybe an internet search might turn up something. Can't offer any first had experience though with 1/2 inch flooring. What about subflooring construction adhesive? I used that on some wooden wainscoting in the bathroom (because I thought it would give a bit, and it has held up just fine; but that is not flooring. Just brainstorming here.
Jim
Re: Flooring--Any Suggestions?
Rod Rentz
>The shiplap approach may be the way. Quite honestly, I simply did not think of that one.
Thanks guys.
Tounge and groove
Dave Bair
>Actually, I installed 3/8" white oak that was T&G from the manufacturer (the tounge was 1/8"). It was installed with construction adhesive and 1" 18-guage brads, per their specs. So, yes it can be done, and yes it looks fine after almost 6 years.