Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Veneer glue
Barry Rubenstein
>I need to glue veneer. Most of my woodworking is in an unheated garage. I've tried contact cementing in the garage when it was warmer weather and it worked fine but is really stinky and probably not a good idea to use contact cement indoors. I've heard yellow glue works ok and polyurethane works fine, both not as stinky as contact cement. Any comments out there ?
Re: Veneer glue
sp8zzz2
>All three of the adhesives you mention are not really ideal for veneer work. Having said that if your work is small you probably can get away with yellow or polurethane glue. Contact cement is definitely not an accepted veneer adhesive. Urea formeldahyde adhesives are usually the glues of choice for serious veneer work.
Re: Veneer glue
Tom Stockton
>Yellow glue is fine for veneer work use it all the time, it does work best when warm so I use a electric blanket over my vacuum press and cover that with moving blankets to keep the heat in. Look on the container for minimum temps.
Polyurathane would be my last choice I probably wouldn't even try it or the contact adhesive.
Urea formaldahyde works fine but is very tempature sensitive, so I wouldn't recomend it for use in a cold shop. I've actually had my most spectacular problems with uni-bond so I stick to regular titebond or titebond cold press glue that you can get at Woodcraft.
Tom
Re: Veneer glue
del schisler
>their are lot's of glues out their here is one link http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5350 and check these out http://www.woodcraft.com/search/search.aspx?query=veneer+glue&refcode=06INGOOG&keyword=veneer_glue
Re: Partially disagree
sp8zzz2
>On the subject of Uni-Bond I have had bad experiences too. And think it is way over rated for what you pay for it. Having said that I like using the one part pre-catalyzed powdered glue from CP Adhesives under the name PPR. It's less than half the cost of UniBond and not as finicky either. I haven't had much difficulty with it in terms of temperature since I work in a heated shop. But if I were working in an unheated space I'd use a heating blanket.
I've used yellow glue too but only on pieces that were smaller (less than 18" square) and then only if there were no seams. Problems I've had with yellow glue have usually been bubbles that surface long after the clamp up.
Re: Partially disagree
Tom Stockton
>The problem I has with unibond was bubbles, the piece was pear wood with a field of diamond shaped pieces and a border around it all layed out in veneer and glued in a vacuum press. I made two tables and after the first try I remade the top and had the same problem, so I spent hours slicing and gluing. But first I had to buy syringes at the vet supply place and fill out some forms telling them what i was using them for. I think the problem was the moisture in the glue was causing the field of diamonds to expand and the borders were not letting them go anywhere so they bubbled.
I've used yellow glue on dining table veneer jobs and have had no problem you just need to move fast and it helps to have help.
Tom
Re: Veneer glue
Bart
>Not sure what the problem is with Unibond, but I've used it several times with great success. In fact, Unibond is pretty easy to mix, and is very forgiving of the ratio of liquid to powder. I would also mention that Pollaro woodworking, which makes very expensive Art Deco reproductions that cost in the 100's of thousnads of dollars, uses Unibond extensively.
Bart
Re: Veneer glue
Herb Yost
>Go to joewoodworker.com for some good glue options -- and a lot of other veneering info. I've used both kinds of glue he sells (cold press and hot press) and have had good success. Do NOT use the hot press if your project has seams, tho.
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