Which 10" ripping blades?

Not On Your List

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>But I simply would not trade my Systematic "Glue Line" rip for anything. I have Freud and Jesada [CMT] and have tried a friend's Forrest. But the "Systi" does the bulk of my table cutting. 7 years old, sharpened twice, and going strong. For cross-cutting ply, I use a Freud coated 80T.

Don't have a RAS, but the Makita LS1211 breezes through most anything up to 11-1/4" wide with the a full-kerf Jesada 96T.

Re: What I found...

Glenn Madsen near San Francisco

>I have a local sharpening shop in town. They've been there forever. The fellow that runs it used to work there when he was in high school, and he has grandchildren now. So I ask Doug what to use, and why. Five minutes of conversation, and we have a deal. I've never bought a bad product from him.

Someone like that near to you?

Re: Which 10" ripping blades?

George@Colonel's Workshop-Havertown PA

>Good Afternoon JEB,

I have been relatively satisfied using a minimum of good blades, and readily admit I have not used all the ones you have under consideration. I consider the WWII 40 thin kerf the best blade in my shop, because it does everything well. So, I use that combination blade as a workhorse. However, I also have and use a Freud 24 tooth rip blade when I have a lot of ripping to do. It saves wear and tear on the WWII, as well as sharpening/transport fees. I also use a Leitz combination blade, and that is good, but not as good as the Forrest. I also have 60 and 80 tooth Leitz blades for cross cutting and laminates. They are very good, and the crosscut of the 80 tooth Leitz is slightly better than the Forrest WWII combo. It is all relative. The Leitz, Forrest, and Freud blades are all excellent and I use them all on furniture without hesitation, and with no discernable difference in result. I do send them all out for sharpening regularly, and believe the sharpness and tooth grind counts for more in accomplishing a finished result. My guess is that I'd be just as happy using your Amana and CMT considerations.

George

Re: Which 10" ripping blades?

JEB

>Hello

Thanks guys for your thoughts. One item of consideration I did not mention is blade wobble or vibration. I know the CMT's have those special anti-vibrations cuts (or should I say just advertise it more).

Any of the blades better or worse?

Thanks again for your comments...JEB

Re: Which 10" ripping blades?

Clint Searl, at the base of Haycock Mtn

>Check out http://www.carbideprocessors.com I have a cermet tipped 40 tooth combination blade that performs very well in either cross or rip. Cermet lasts much longer than carbide and will cut faster.

Clint

Blade Physics

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>Is pretty complex, given tooth geometry and size, and OVTS, but thin-kerfs will move and wiggle more as a general rule. Cut quality really jumped on my 12" SCMS when I switched to a full-kerf blade.

mm

Re: Which 10" ripping blades?

Barry Irby

>I have a full kerf Forrest 40 tooth WWII combo blade and use it as my workhorse on my TS. I have had it for at least five years and am completely satisfied. Paid over a hundred bucks for it and would buy it again in a minute. (Maybe I would buy it in a second if I could find it for $66.)

Look for a true RAS blade. A crosscut balde with negative rake teeth. I have a blade on mine that has little or no rake and it is much better than a standard blade, but I believe a negative rake blade would do even better.

PS......

Barry Irby

>The only thing I don't like about my Forrest blade is that it does not cut a flat bottom groove. Sometimes I would like to use it for cutting spline joints and such and a flat bottom groove is necessary.

Forrest makes a blade that does that, but I have no experience with it.

Re: Which 10" ripping blades?

Jim Dillon

>JEB,

Frankly, all my saw blades exceed my ability as a woodworker 8-). I have (all regular kerf) a Forrest WWII 40 and 30 tooth, plus a Forrest FTG 40 tooth (a wonderful blade for joints). Also a Forrest (thin kerf) 80 tooth plywood blade, a Freud 24 tooth rip blade, and a General (Tenyru?) combination 40(?)tooth. For my SCMS, I have a thin kerf Forrest 80(?) tooth blade. I use them all depending on the situation. I am happy with the Forrest blades and have them sharpened by Forrest. Are they worth the extra money? I can't say as my experience with other brands (other than those mentioned above) is nonexistent. I recall reading good things about Ridge (as expensive as Forrest), Systematic (good value) and Freud. I know this isn't much help to you, but it represents my experience. Good luck.

Jim

Re: Which 10" ripping blades?

Robin Corell in Atascadero CA

>You didn't mention what you will be cutting with the blades or what you will be making with the parts you cut. This may sound insignificant but it is realy what should be at the heart of the decision on what blade you buy. I cut zero melamine, MDF, or particle board and very very little ply. I make solid wood furniture. for my cutting needs almost any decent quallity carbide blade would do. The more exotic grinds are for getting minimal tearout in coated sheet goods with some blades better at melamine and others better at veneered ply. The higher grades of carbide and exotic alloys are for abrasice materials or woods. Glenn had a great sugestion about having a conversation with someone who can ask you these questions and then make a recomendation based on your answers. Just for the record I am very happy with my Amana square ground ripping blade and my Everlast cross cut blade gives me great cuts in solid wood. (solid wood is probably the easiest thing to cut and get great results)

Robin

Re: Which 10" ripping blades?

Fred Davis

>If remember correctly Glenn uses Bay Area Carbide for his tool sharpening and advice and is the shop I used for many years when I was out there.

They used to sell a full line of Systimatic blades and shaper cutters and they had some German imports which were very good.

But the best part about them is their ability to top grind,and side grind to tolerences at least as good the blade manufactuer.

Many shops don't , don't have the equipment or the expertise or heard that would be a good way to make a living ,after they retired from Farming , Teaching, elephant training or what ever.

Many good blades out there , but few shops as good as they should be, so , research your local cabinet shops and who they use for sharpening.

FredD

information lacking

Bill Tindall, E.TN

>What performance improvement are you expecting from this purchase? Factors could be less load on saw motor, less saw dust generated, less noise, smother cut, faster cut, capable of ripping glue joints, longer blade life, less cost, more sharpenings possible, etc. No blade is best for all these factors, so pick the one most important.

I just bought these *LINK*

Frank Mutchler

>I have two WoodWorker II blades that I've had resharpened two or three times. They are great blades and I paid over $100/each for them and about $40 (don't remember) to resharpen each time. They are ready for resharpening again.

No idea how these will perform but at $20/ea I don't mind the gamble.


cheap blades

Re: Which 10" ripping blades?

Charles M

>JEB,

Although Freud is not on your list, if you will indicate the stock thickness you are ripping and your priority for edge finish vs. speed of cut I will be happy to provide the item number for an appropriate blade.

Freud and Forrest

Tim Greif - West of Chicago

>I generally keep a Forest WWII (combo blade) on my table saw for general use. I get great results with it. But if I'm ripping hardwood, I change to a Freud LM72R010 24 tooth rip blade. It rips with much less effort and rarely burns the edge like the Forrest can on hardwood. My RAS has a Freud LU91R010 60 tooth, negative hook cross cut blade. If you've never tried a negative hook blade on your RAS, you'll be absolutely amazed at the difference. It really eliminates the tendency for the blaqde to jump into the wood. Very smooth cut. the only time that blade gets removed is if I'm crosscutting construction lumber or doing dado work.

Re: Which 10" ripping blades?

BILL White

>I have been well pleased with my Infinity 24th ripper. Not expensive either.

Bill

Re: Freud and Forrest

Ralph Turney

>I switched to nothing but Forrest blades after every single Freud blade I bought ended up with nothing but chipped and cracked teeth. I thought that they were the best and had quite a few of them. Since buying my first Forrest blade, I've given all the Freud blades away when I found that I never needed anything other than the 30 & 40 tooth Forrest blades on my PM66. This is one case where I do believe you get what you pay for. They stay sharp for a long time.

I also build cabinets for a couple of years and talked them into buying a Forrest blade, and after cutting thousands of feet of lauan plywood, that was when I really became a believer.

Re: Which 10" ripping blades?

Frank Mutchler

>JEB, here's my first impressions of 'cheap' 10" blades. I just finished cross cutting some 4/4 hard maple..about a dozen cuts. To say it was like a hot knife through butter would be a gross understatement. Very quiet as well. Outstanding. I'll be ripping shortly an see what the finish looks like.