This Episodes Questions:

Brian’s Questions:

I know planing before face jointing is sacraledge but I was recently visiting with an older experienced wood worker who noted he never face joints. Planes both sides then edge joints and it’s fine.

Thoughts? Thinking if you want it dead flat perfect or board is not great to start with jointing certainly makes sense. But anybody just plane it? Perhaps starting with a decent board it would work for most applications?

My 20” planer is a breeze to put wood through, the jointer is great but takes more effort/time if it’s not needed would be a nice step to drop.

Curious on your thoughts, Matt Wendig

I’m preparing to build a set of kitchen cupboards from white oak. The style will be Mission, with some Frank Lloyd Wright Prairies Style touches. I have several questions.
I need to cut up a lot of 3/4″ plywood. I have a good track saw and a cabinet tablesaw with side and outfeed tables. When watching videos of some people constructing kitchen cabinets, I’m surprised that they cut the sheet goods with the track saw but then cut them again, to final size, on the table saw. I imagined myself using the track saw only—to do very precise cuts to final size and not cutting the panels twice. What is your process? Any advice on maximizing my chances of getting near-perfect panels with the track saw only and avoiding the two-cuts process? Darrin

Guy’s Questions:

Hey guys, love the podcast. I’m making a screen door for the porch out of cedar that is 1.5” thick, 36” x 84” with 5.5” wide stiles and rails (top, middle and bottom). I have a festool DF500, if I used 10 x 50 dominoes for the joinery would that be strong enough or should I use traditional mortise and tenons?

I’ve read that cedar is pretty dimensionally stable. I was thinking about just staining or oiling the door (I don’t want it to turn gray) but does it need an actual topcoat to help keep it from warping? Just don’t want to use a finish that is going to flake off and I will have to sand and refinish every year or so. If it needs a topcoat could you recommend a finish?

Thanks,
Scott in Birmingham.

Throughly enjoy the pod cast. I am almost up to date on all past episodes and they hve been quite informative. Little back story on my question. Had a client contact me about repairing a dinning table they had built for their home. For clarity I didn’t build the table. The top is a solid wood glue up with breadboards on the ends. On one end of the top the breadboard sticks out about 1/16” past the rest of the top. On the other end 2 boards have a split between the glue line that stretches roughly 2 feet along their length. I’m sure it is from the wood contracting. Any pointers on how to repair the issue? I’m 99.9% sure the table top is made from southern yellow pine. It is stained with a top coat of poly acrylic. Robert

Huy’s Questions:

Hello guys,

I love the podcast and have learned a ton from you. Keep up the great work and thank you for your time.

I have a question on how you store your tools that require precision/calibration. Specifically, I have an Incra 5000 cross cut sled. When not in use, I store it standing on its side on the shop floor. Is there a better / more correct way? Similar question goes for any other shop made sled / jig that you expect to use over and over again. How do you store it?

Max
Greddie Woodworks

It was mentioned that one of you repalced the wheels on his band saw, do to it wearing out and it was a pain. I have bought a used 14 inch delta bandsaw, and I have no idea how to know if parts are worn out beside the obvious part being the blade. So how can I figure out parts are worn out, sources to shop for replacements ( no home depo in Okinawa) tips and or youtube videos on how to do these maintainance tasks? Oh and what you do to increase the function of a band saw, like would you buy a bow system fence for it?

Many thanks,
Paul Mitchell
Oki Mitch Crafts

This Episodes Questions:

Brians Questions:

Hi Guys
love your podcast. I have a quick question regarding table saw blades. Can you give me a recommendation on a good quality 10″ table saw blade that I can get re-sharpened when needed. I keep blowing through blades and I’m tired of buying new ones. Also, do you send the blades back to get re-sharpened or take them to your nearest local blade sharpening place
thanks in advance
Dave

I’m making an ash table top (never used ash before) and had a few questions. How should I edge join the boards for glue up (domino or biscuits), what’s the best finish for ash when used as a desk to avoid feeling the grain on ash. I don’t have a sprayer but could be a good excuse to get one. What edge profiles do you guys like to use for tables and/or desk that get lots of use and also look good? Chayse

Guy’s Questions:

My latest project is an Arts & Crafts sideboard made in quartersawn white oak. I’m at the point in the project where I need to start thinking about how to finish the piece. Its my first time working with this wood and I’m considering fuming the piece with ammonia as I’ve read that this process will really make the grain rays stand out. People seem pretty divided on whether its worth the time and risk of working with harmful chemicals and I wanted to get your collective thoughts and experience. Have you used an ammonia fuming process? Do you think its worth it? Any tips or tricks to share? I’m in the northeast so the current low temps add some complexity as I’ve learned that colder temperatures slow down the process.
Regards, Adam

I’m working on a veneered box. Normally you’d glue a similarly oriented veneer on the back surface to prevent warping. For the veneer, I’m planning on cross cutting small strips and then gluing them together, roughly like how inlays are made. I’ll then be cutting thin slices from the resulting laminated assembly. I’ll be using the thin slices as the veneer, like a mosaic or a quilt. The grain of these thin slices will run in different directions. Do I still need a backing? If so, in which direction should the backing grain run? Lauris

Huy’s Questions:

The topic of wood movement comes up pretty regularly on this show. When it does, however, it is typically related to questions on how to account for it in regards to a specific project or joinery method. Meanwhile, I’m sitting here wondering what wood movement actually is. I understand that humidity and temperature cause wood to expand or contract, but that’s about where my understanding ends. Why is it important to account for wood movement? What happens if you don’t? What is this business I’ve heard mentioned about projects exploding? On a related note, often when questions about mitigating wood movement come up the answers to those questions are something along the lines of “If you use __ (type of joinery, layout, etc) you shouldn’t have to worry about wood movement.” As someone still very new to the principles of woodworking, the question I always have is: why? Why will using such and such method or assembling your project in this or that manner mitigate wood movement? Zach

Hey guys. Love your podcast and appreciate the help you’ve given me over the years with your knowledge and experience in the craft. I have an entryway table I’m building out of walnut and cocobolo. The top will consist of a glue up of the two woods. What glue should I use for the glue up since cocobolo is very oily? And what sort of finish would you recommend for this application? Thanks again and take care!
Ryan of Mountain Custom Woodworks

This Episodes Listener Questions:

Guys Questions:

Hello Guy, Huy, and Brian,
Loving the content you guys are dishing out. Keep up the good work!

I have my sights set on a jointer in the near future as I would like to save time and energy squaring lumber. My preference up until now has generally been to buy new tools and the thought of refurbishing/repairing anything used has not appealed to me. However, the cost difference between a new/used jointer has me thinking differently. Also, the jointer seems to be one of, if not the easiest, of the big woodworking machines to refurbish given its simplicity. Correct me if I am wrong in this thinking. Curious to hear your thoughts if you think it is worth my time and effort to buy a used jointer or should I go new? What should I look for if I were to go used? I realize that moving a big machine like an 8″ jointer will be challenging, but I can easily get some friends together and rent a trailer to get the job done if the cost savings are great enough. Plus some beers and pizza for the helpers will help. Thanks! -John

Hey Folks,
Thank you for for the podcast. I love how quickly you jump right into the questions! Here’s mine: I’m building a set of screen doors for a cottage. The doors will be exposed directly to the weather in Quebec.
The doors will get a lot of abuse. They will close with a spring and slam frequently. The screen will run the full length of the door. I’m hoping to use a domino for the joinery.
3 questions: 1) what glue should I use? 2) what wood should I use? 3) How should I finish the doors?
Thanks ! Larry

Gentlemen,
First let me thank you for the podcast. I recently stumbled upon it and you three are now my regular company on my daily commute. Thank you! I consider myself a beginner hobbyist woodworker. My shop is the third bay of a 3 bay garage. My question is about when it is appropriate to use 3/4 inch vs 1/2 inch plywood. 3/4 inch plywood is so common, I wonder if it is needed as often as it is used? What kinds of applications need 3/4 inch plywood and what are some examples of when 1/2 inch plywood would be sufficient? I know that I am often guilty of over building projects and I suspect many woodworkers are. Thanks for any information you can provide.
James Aydelotte

Huy’s Questions:

One more quick question, I’m working on getting into proper jointery. Is a nice hand saw worth investing in or is there an affordable option I can go with. I do mostly custom trim work but getting into more furniture grade work so it’s not something I will be using all day every day. Arntz Construction

Huy,

I am considering a clearvue and Oneida cyclone dust collector. I know you have the clearvue. What is your opinion of its performance? I have heard that it is very loud, what do you think? Thanks! Don

I’ve been doing more and more hand tool woodworking, so less and less dust-producing activities, but I still have occasion to use regular power tools for certain things. I’ve been striving to get better performance from my roll-around single stage D/C (with add-on cyclone pre-separator) and upgrading my hand-held power tools to ones with better built-in dust extraction… but there are still operations (edge cuts on the TS or with the router) that just spew crap everywhere. One area I need to probably do better on is wearing some sort of dust mask and/or respirator. I’ve avoided wearing them in the past, due to having a beard and knowing that masks get a very poor if any seal as a result. I’m considering getting something like a Trend AirShield (powered respirator / face shield), and was wondering if you have any other suggestions? Monte

Guy’s Questions:

Guys,
Recently I’ve been trying to expand my meager wood shop with budget friends older tools. (Most recently a delta x5 6” jointer to fix up and repaint for example).
What would you look for when shopping for a used band saw you’re hoping to re-saw with? Where do you look for parts for older/discontinued tools? Any advice on tools that are best to just buy new?
Many thanks, Dave

Can you share about your design process? My biggest challenge is coming up with designs or finding plans (or redesigning plans) that are going to come out terrific without being too far above my skills, the tools I have, or my available time. Do you ever make prototypes or miniatures first? Do you do your planning in Illustrator, Sketchup, Rhino or ? Or do you just make notes and sketches on paper? And where do you keep your notes so you can recreate the same results?
For context: I discovered woodworking during the pandemic and fell in love with it. I’m a senior woman and it’s a wonderful hobby for me (not a career or a side hustle). I’ll never make lots of the same item for selling, but making only one doesn’t work because I don’t get good at it until I make at least 3. Trish

Thank you so much for covering my question about building a Butcher Block. I was shocked that Guy could speak French!!! I should not be surprised as Guy is a French name (pronounced Gkee). However, I am not familiar with the expression he used, but he is excused since he prefaced it with “Pardon my French”. Guy, you are forgiven, but if you want to use some really good French salty words to punctuate a thought, I am here for you buddy. We frogs need to stick together. On a side note, I have another question. I would eventually like to purchase a drill press. I really like the Nova Voyager and its direct programmable drive. My question is, what is the advantage of a free standing vs a bench mount drill press. I can see the advantage of a bench mount as it can provide storage space below. But why would any wood worker prefer a free standing unit? I believe I saw in huy’s video he does have the Nova drill press. From Thailand, Bert Plourde

Huy’s Questions:

Hi guys! Thank you for the great podcast. I look forward to listening to half of your show on the coincidentally timed drive to our local Woodcraft, and the other half on the way home. You put out great information, and humbly have the best show out there.
I have a question about sanding mops, and don’t know if any of you have experience with them. I’m currently making a large batch of ‘Contemporary Door & Drawer Pulls’ based on Larissa Huff & Robert Spieces’s article in FWW issue #289. Using Walnut.
One of the last steps in the article says, “To further refine the shape, and give the pull a nice soft quality, we finish up those hard to reach edges with a flap sander in the drill press. This sanding tool gives the pull a wonderfully tactile feel…”
After looking at the sanding mops in the Klingspor catalog, I’m a bit overwhelmed by the many options.
I’m curious as to which grit (grits) you might suggest to get that oh so important ‘wonderfully tactile feel’. I also wondered if there is a particular manufacturer you’ve had success with.
Thank you for your help!
Kevin Long

Hey guys,
As a hobbyist I like projects where I have to figure out something new (but not too extreme).
Sometimes I will modify a plan to make it more functional, more interesting, or just so I don’t get bored. Most of the time I don’t regret it, but occasionally I do kick myself.
As professional woodworkers how do you balance the need to be efficient and the desire to be creative?
Thanks, Chuck

Hello gentlemen,
I am in the middle of a remodel that will finish with painting the outside. I am going to make shutters for the windows and would like suggestions on what wood to buy. They will be painted.
I live in California and won’t have woods like alder or ash or southern pine available. The most common outdoor wood around here is redwood but that is normally stained and not painted. Can you use softwood in that application? Would even pine work?
I would love your thoughts.
Thanks, Rick

This Weeks Questions

Brian:
Hey guys, I just discovered this podcast and have been thoroughly enjoying the episodes so far! I am a guitar technician by trade and recently started to build my own solid body electric guitar. I have been studying up on tool safety and learning proper technique, as a beginner I don’t want to develop any bad habits or unsafe practices. I used a router table when creating the guitar neck from a template, but if i’m being honest I am a bit intimidated by it and would prefer to start routing with a hand held router instead. As a guitar player and thumb wrestling aficionado, I would like to keep all of my digits where they belong! With that being said, I have a few questions I’d like to ask specific to hand routers:
      1.    When edge routing hardwood, is there anything I need to be aware of that would cause the router to suddenly jump or kickback? Can I do this with a trim router, or do I need a 2+HP router? I am using figured curly maple for the neck and alder for the body. Does that make a difference?
      2.    How much wood can I safety remove per pass? (The neck thickness is around 1” and the body thickness is around 1.75”)
      3.    Any techniques or advice on how to minimize chipping, tear out and router burn? i.e. speed of push, router bit speed
Jordan

What is all the fuss about french cleats? Have you guys used them in your shop? Are they the organizational panacea they are made out to be or is there a better way to use wall space to keep your shop neat and your tools accessible?
Evan

Guys Questions:

Hey guys, I have a question about finishing.
I am about to purchase a solid Mahogany entry door and I’d like to finish it myself. (Not so much “like” inasmuch save a grand) But I’m not quite sure what to use. I’ve asked professional painters and looked online but get a ton of different responses. I don’t really want to stain it but rather get a color from an oil finish like you’d get from waterlox or Odie’s. From all my research I’m leaning towards Total boat marine wood finish.
I live in the south suburbs of chicago and my door faces directly west. It is covered by about a 4’ over hang and I have a 30 year old oak in front so it wouldn’t see much direct Sun, rain or snow.
Hopefully you get to this in the next couple episodes as I think it’s about a 4 week lead time and we’re ordering it this week.
Thanks!
Kurt

Hi gentlemen,

I love your podcast! It really gets me through tough hump days at work and gets me excited to get back into the shop each weekend.
I typically create midcentury modern furniture or pieces that are unique and allow some creativity, but I’ve developed a side-side gig of cutting boards and such by request for business to business type orders. Recently, my day job (I’m in biomedical research) requested Missouri shaped plaques with logos and script for visiting keynote speakers. I’ve avoided the CNC and laser world as I prefer hand tool woodworking, but one or the other would be necessary for this project and presumably a great feature in the shop. I’ve done my research and still can’t decide.
This will be an ongoing order so I don’t want to be too cheap, but clearly not industrial due to space. What would you suggest? Diode seems limiting, but it would quickly pay off. CO2 sounds ideal, but pricey. CNC (Shark?) sounds more useful to my main hobby and I could cut out the state shape too. I usually believe in “pay once, cry once”, but this is a significant decision.
Deana from Pomegranate Studios

Huys Questions:

Hi. You have a great show. I’m ready to buy my first track saw and am looking at the Festool TS55. I’m looking for opinions on whether the cordless model is worth an extra $170 over the corded. In the shop with a dust extractor it seems like the cord is not much additional encumbrance. Outside the cordless with just the dust bag would be advantageous. Thanks, John

Hey guys, as always, I love the show and how you guys are able to provide excellent information from various perspectives. Today I would like to pick your brains about food safe finishes for a couple different situations. My wife bought me an outdoor pizza oven for my birthday, and because I’m a woodworker, I promptly threw out the wooden pizza peel that I’ve been using for years so that I could make one. My first attempt was with cherry and spalted maple. The maple ended up being much more punky than I had expected so I made a second one with cherry, hickory, and bubinga. What would you guys suggest for finishes? The peel will be going into a 700 degree oven, and I plan on repurposing the one with spalted maple to a charcuterie or serving platter, so it might have hot pizza on it, but I would like it to be sealed. Keep up the awesome podcast!
Josh from the Blackdog Woodworks

Brians Questions:

Gentlemen,
Thank you so much for this podcast. I very much look forward to each episode. I primarily work with hand tools making traditional furniture. One of the few machines I own is a PowerMatic 15” bandsaw. Guy’s positive review of it sealed my decision and I’m very happy with it. Fantastic bandsaw. I mostly use it for long straight cuts and keep the Laguna 3/4” carbide tipped blade in it. On the occasions I need to make curve cuts I hate to change out blades. Call me lazy. I’d like to get another tool for this other than doing it by hand. It could be a smaller band saw with a thin blade, the DeWalt DW788 scroll saw, or something else. Mostly cuttin 4 quarter stock but on occasion eight quarter stock. What would you get and why? I also own a Makita corded jigsaw. Many thanks and keep up the great work.
Sincerely
Joe Leonetti.

Having two friends recently experience serious injuries while using their table saw, I am continuing to do more ripping using my bandsaw for safety sake. (I, like my two injured friends are in our 70’s- not as quick in our reactions, as good in our judgements or dexterous as when younger.) I’m fortunate to have two bandsaws, one of which I keep a 1/2” blade on for the purpose of resawing and ripping, so it works out quite well. The issue is the rough edge left by the bandsaw vs the smooth “gluable” edge that the table saw produces. What’s the best way to address this? I’ve heard mention of using a jointer after ripping – does this not introduce uncertainty as to the final width of the piece just ripped? For example, if I wanted a piece 10” wide and ripped it to 10 1/16”, I’d have to have my jointer set to remove exactly 1/16 which even if I accomplish that setting, may be hard to achieve and also get a perfect 90 degree edge. As an aside- I’m still considering selling my Powermatic and getting a Sawstop in the interest of increased safety. While some people might scoff at that idea, I don’t care-to each his own. Both of my two friends injuries were ugly, debilitating and expensive. Thanks for the best and most informative woodworking podcast! Tim Deal

Guys Questions:

Hello Huy and Guy, and welcome to the show Brian. My question today is about quoting pricing for inconvenience. What I mean by that is this: if a client comes to you with a request that you aren’t really excited about does that affect how much you quote? Do you ever give them a high quote in the holes that they say no, but high enough that if they still say yes, it offsets any frustration you expect to have while building?
Thanks, and I’m still waiting for Brian’s social media… and for Guy to say specificity again.
Joshua.

Huy’s Questions:

Great podcast guys. I Really appreciate how you guys answer questions based on your individual experiences. I like hearing 3 or 4 different ways to perform a task using a variety of tools. My question: my current home has 1/2” particle drawer boxes and I’m replacing them. What would you recommend for drawer box construction concerning material, thickness, drawer bottom thickness, and finish. Thanks.
-Eric Brown

Greetings Gentlemen,
Thank you for continuing your podcast into 2023. It’s very informative, but in a relaxed and casual format. Also; a welcome to Brian. Sean was a long time co-host and will be missed but Brian has slipped into his slot with ease and is doing great.

My question today is about planing. I’m making a 4×6 ft table top out of true 1-1/8 inch thick x 6 inch wide, rough cut white oak. When dressing down the wood, I plan on jointing one surface then planing the other surface parallel. Finished thickness I think will be between ¾ and 7/8. Here is the question. How important is it to take equal amounts off of each side? Can I just joint one surface and plane the opposite down to my finished thickness or do I have to try to take an equal amount off of both sides. If it matters, the lumber is kiln dried down to 7%.

Terry W.

Brian’s Questions:

I’ve recently walled off the third bay of my three car garage to give me a smaller space to heat and a wall to work with. I have started thinking about my ~270 sqft shop in three dimensions trimming all the fat and maximizing my functionality.What would you guys do with a nice healthy 11ft ceiling height considering I want pretty much my entire shop to exist is this space. What type of ideas would you have for multi functioning furniture? What would you put on the walls? Everything that can be is already on wheels. I’ve got most every major tool you guys do. Just curious on your take. How would you cram yourselves into this little space or do you already?
Thanks for continuing the podcast. -Jim G.

I am building an outdoor bench using steel legs and a currently rough cedar top. I plan on sanding the cedar smooth and finishing it. What would be the best grit to sand to, and what finish should I apply? It will get all-day full sunlight.
Jason H.

Guy’s Questions:

Hi: As I have said before, this is the best woodworker podcast on the planet! I enjoy so much the focus on woodworkers questions. Your personalities shines through as well as your intellect and your skills as a woodworker. Thanks so much.
My question stems from a recent project I started. I tried to be more exacting. I designed the project on gridded paper, figured out each exact dimension and then started to calculate the wood requirements. I figured out the sheet goods by figuring out the rough layout of the parts on a scale grid diagram. Then I calculated the board feet of each of the solid wood parts using a board feet calculator app a selecting 10% for waste option. I then added them up and got ready to buy the necessary wood.
In the past I just winged it. I’d have a rough drawing on scrap paper and a guess at the wood requirements which often meant follow-up trips to the store. Projects often had a few rework, redesign elements on the fly and some issues that hopefully I could only see, hence the change to more exacting.
I have a few questions. How exact are you with your designs? Is this the process you go through before purchasing wood? Is there another way? Do you use any apps like:”BoardFeetEasy” or “SmartCut”? Do you use any other woodworking apps? If so which ones? Is 10% a good waste figure? Do you adjust the waste figure based on any criteria? What are the criteria?
Thanks again for you’re time, focus and insite into the craft of woodworking.
Regards,Joe James

Hi, thanks for all the great work on this podcast. Yours is the only one that actually I even have a dedicated podcast app set up for, so that you guys are only a couple taps away for my sausage fingers whenever I have a free moment and want to learn something. Anyway, my question is about using a dryer plug for 220V machines. I’m planning a couple new tools for my basement shop, and whilst my first choice is to add a dedicated 220 line, I’d rather space things out financially if I can. One option seems potentially to use the dryer electrical socket until I have the cash flow to run dedicated electrics. I’m seeing mixed things in my research and wondering if you have any real world experience on using dryer plugs for tools with an adapter/extension, specifically if it’s a hazard and the pros/cons? In my case the tools would be a Hammer A326 and Sawstop PCS 3HP. Thanks for any advice you can offer and keep up the great work. Phil Evans

Huy’s Questions:

Hi guys, love the podcast! Thanks for all you do! I’m designing my first piece of larger furniture, an entry way table. I am planning 3 drawers across the top, and below that a cabinet in the center and open shelves to either side. I’m wondering how you guys decide on proportions for a build like this. Supposedly the 1.618 is some kind of magic formula that makes everything perfect, but how do you use it, or do you even bother? What if the piece has to fit a certain space, do you take that into account? Help me woodshop life, you’re my only hope! Matt

Hello all, how about another shop storage question? I’ve been primarily a power tool user for many years, but have started building a hand tool collection over the last 2 or 3 years. Im finding the “hybrid” approach more to my liking and feel it’s certainly improved the quality of my projects with the ability to fine tune fit and finish. Now being the proud owner of quality chisels, a few hand planes, scrapers and so on, most of the tools are in a tool box drawer.
I want to get these commonly used items out of the drawer and in reach, but I find myself starting to plan and build tool holders or storage solutions only to scrap it and move onto something else because I get lost in how simple or complex to make it.
I need to just shut up and do it, I know this. In your opinions, when you need a storage solution, do you just make whats basic and functional and after some use fine tune or remake it when needed? Or, do you spend time laying everything out and aiming for a one and done build?
-Mike

Brians Questions:

Hi again guys, And thank you for contiuing to make THE BEST woodworking podcast. I have an 8″ benchtop style crappy planer(jointer) thicknesser combo machine. The cheap ones you find in lots of colors. It has straight blades and quite short in and outfeed tables. I also have an Axminster AT330ST thicknesser, large lunchbox style, 330mm capacity with a spiral cutter head. I generally do my edge jointing on the table saw with a sled. First of all. When do you choose to skip plane instead face jointing the board first? And second: Would you do it differently with my setup. Thanks again, Gøran Eliassen Nomad Makes

Love the podcast, I have a small unheated shop in Northern Canada. I’ve learned that during the winter months I need to bring in all my glues and finishes as they don’t respond well to freezing. I also learned the hard way that my warm glue on frozen wood doesn’t work either. My question is, how long should the glue set before I can return it to freezing conditions? I usually try for 24 hours but this can create long delays in projects and fills my house with glue up panels. Also is there a type of glue that would work best in freezing conditions. CA glue works fine, but isn’t strong enough for panel glue ups or assembly. – Ben

Thought this might be a fun question. If you aren’t familiar with the phrase “the cobbler’s children have no shoes,” it often means that you are taking care of other’s needs before your own. But it can also be used to mean something that everyone expects of you in your field/craft that you have never done. For example, I always hear that everyone’s first project is a cutting board, but I was in the craft for years before I made one! And I’ve yet to cut a mortise and tenon! So, what haven’t you made that everyone would think you had, or what skill do you not have that it would be assumed you do? Peter Downing @mr.downing.woodworking on Instagram

Huy’s Questions:

Hey guys! I appreciate your podcast and always look forward on listening to the latest episodes! I am a hobby woodworker who has done some commission builds. As my hobby is turning into a side hustle more and more I am wondering at what point do I make it “official”. I live in the Nashville, TN area and there is a strong market for custom woodworking. Whilst I don’t “need” the money, the thought of fueling my hobby and having the extra cash seems viable. Have any of you became an LLC or setup a DBA? Are there benefits on doing so even if my business would stay relatively small? Again, love the podcast and thank you for your contribution to the community! God Bless! -Will

Great podcast! I am looking for your opinions on a good set of brad point drill bits that won’t break the bank. I’ve been using a set from Harbor Freight, and I would like to step up in quality. I’m a hobbyist who doesn’t need the best, just decent quality. Any ideas? -Dan

I think that my next tool purchase might be for a tracksaw-like guide for a circular saw or something similar. We sometimes run into situations where we need to rip a straight line. This would actually be more for ‘carpentry’ applications than fine ‘woodworking’. Things like ripping a long 2×6 or 2×8 at an angle, or rip a sheet of plywood in the field (so portability and reasonable durability would be important). Whatever we buy would be used by a lot of different guys and we’d keep it in our shared workshop. Most of the guys have Dewalt circular saws but several guys have other brands (Milwaukee, Ridgid, etc.). So the track would have to be adjustable for the bases of the various saws. I’ve spent zero time investigating this. Thought I’d start here. Any recommendations? – Mark

Guy’s Questions:

1) Sanding vs planing finish. Is there really a big difference? Submitter: aeumber

Marc’s YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yC45Cb-p89I

2) Concerning table saw safety. How wide should the board be before you stop using a push stick and start using your hands? Submitter:
Tabb Adams

Sean’s Questions:

1) Everyone podcast has discussions of the woodworker’s favorite tool. But most of the answers are hundreds if not thousands of dollars (cough cough saw stop). Many of us do not have the means to purchase those tools. So, what is your favorite tool under $50? How does it excel and what are its limitations? Submitter: Rusty_Keyboard

2) Hey guys. I plan to buy a SawStop for my garage shop. I’d really want to get the 3hp professional model. I’ll also need to buy a dust collector, and I’m looking at the Oneida mini gorilla or Jet cyclone (to be connected by flex hose to one tool at a time, no duct work). My issue is that I only have a single 220 volt outlet. Should I get a the 3hp/220v saw with a 1.5 hp/110v dust collector or the 1.75 hp/110v saw with a 2hp/220v dust collector? Thanks for your advice. Submitter: David

Huy’s Questions:

1) in reference to shop aprons/vests/tool belt/baby sling(ha, been there on that one) ?? What is the preference of each of you? Is it related to the task at hand or general comfort? I’ve gone to a waxed canvas tool apron, durable but still light. Just enough to hold a small tape, square and any marking tools needed at that time. Curious on how you all approach it. Thanks. Submitter: Wesley

2) where do you start? A keen interest but an empty (basic tools) garage/woodshop.  Submitter: mcsegel

There are many ways to join pieces of wood, but mortise and tenon joints are the standard against which most alternatives are measured. In this comprehensive video (15 minutes), University of Rio Grande program director Eric Matson explains how mortise and tenon joints are used in typical post-and-rail construction — the type of construction often used in high-quality chairs, tables, and beds. In these applications, vertical posts (or legs) are joined with horizontal rails (or aprons). It’s the perfect application for this traditional joint.

In this video, Eric deconstructs a sample side table to show us how high-quality furniture is designed and built. Learn how to layout mortises for maximum strength, how to incorporate and work with split tenons, how to mark-up twin tenoned mortises, and how to account for reveals, offsets, and non-flush designs. Eric’s systematic approach minimizes errors and helps make layout and construction more efficient. For me, that’s the key point; understanding what makes for consistent, repeatable, quality joints. Armed with the information in this video and careful step-by-step application of what you’ve learned, you can craft better, stronger, faster joints. — (15.5 Minute Woodworking Video)

Eric Matson is the Director of the Fine Woodworking Program at Rio Grand University. Rio Grande offers a one year certificate program, as well as two year associates and four year college degree programs. Graduates have the skills and knowledge to be productive in custom furniture shops and architectural/cabinet shops. Rio Grande (pronounced rye-oh) is in Southern Ohio.

The post How to Layout Mortises: Anatomy of Post & Rail Construction first appeared on WoodTreks.