How much do you Bench ?

No. It's my cheap, nasty mobile phone and the wide angle lens distortion. I only take quality photos on my Olympus for customers and personal records. 
My wife's phone takes much better pictures than this clapped out old oyster shucker.

Why epoxy glue? With all the gluing surface I would think a simple gluing with Elmers gives more gluing strength then needed.

Ralph Lipeles wrote:

Why epoxy glue? With all the gluing surface I would think a simple gluing with Elmers gives more gluing strength then needed.

Elmer's would work. The only slight problem is it introduces a lot of moisture in to a very large lamination and may take a while to stabilise. I glued my top in two main  widths then glued them together. 
Ordinarily im not a big fan of epoxy. It's expensive and messy. But for hard Australian timbers that are very dense it's a better glue for this particular job. 
I remember Elmer's. We tended to use the Franklin yellow glue in the organ trade.
I prefer hide glue for some thing's.
Gluing a top like this with hide ? Not impossible but time consuming.
The top is quite a lot of work because you have to cut the dog holes then glue them to the main lam. But it's worth the extra time and effort because you get a self stable slab that cannot twist. 
I would give the glue lams at least two weeks to dry before finish jointing and thickness planing if I used a water based glue. With epoxy you don't need to worry about that. I used resin but the paste type works okay. Resin gives you better penetration and strength I suspect.
Expensive and messy but worth the extra for this application. 
🍻 cheers. Good question. Perfectly valid.

Added later 18 min 57 s:

No bounce with this type I assure you. Far from it. Much depends on the stretchers and how they attatch to the legs. The stretchers need to be nice and wide and low. 
The real problem with the Ruobo type is that moving it is very hard. The legs tend to grab and chatter on the floor.
If the floor isn't level it transmits up through the legs and stresses the joints and top. 
So the bench ends up stuck in one spot to get it level by shimming the leg's  ! 
I don't have to worry about that you see ?
I do understand the romantic attachment to that old style. It looks the part but in 
practice ? They end up against the wall and that's the worst place for a bench.
It means you can only get to your project from one side instead of both.
It's not healthy or practical to stare at a wall.
We always tended to face our benches to the middle of the shop so we could see each other and talk to each other while we worked. Bench placement is VERY important. 
Light is vital. Try looking at a wall all day and see how quickly it gets you down ! Not good.
Guys go mad staring at walls. It's like being in prison.
Anyway, thank you for your input. It's valid, it's a good question and yes, solidity is very important. I totally hear you there.
🍻

Added later 11 min 56 s:

Bruce McCrory wrote:

Most informative! Thanks for the design logic. 

My one pleasure with using a Rube Goldie (Roubo) inspired timber mess is watching no bounce, no vibration. It's a feeling thing as well.

Sorry Bruce, I screwed up. My reply to you is directly below the other one. 
I've worked on many old Roubo benches. They tend to get wobbly in old age because they don't like being moved around and moving damages the joints and twists the top. Often the top is two wide planks with a well. I never liked that style. Just gathers crap and dust. 
The cross frame style is basically a door frame but with the rails extending past the legs. Those angled horns make the joint much much tougher. Trust me. I've flogged this bench. I've jointed 8×10 " beams on it.
I've got to do another thread on the dogs and tail vice.