Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998
Twist on Homebrew
RevDoug
>Russ, I was wondering about a change to the "homebrew" finish. We normally talk about blo or tung oil being mixed with varnish and mineral spirits. Would teak oil work as well or better? Also, I know you talk about adding a bit of japan dryer to the mixture. Do you have a suggested amount or ratio of dryer to finish to add?
TIA
Turn 'em round,
RevDoug
Re: Twist on Homebrew
Russ Fairfield
>What we call "Teak Oil" is just another name for an oil/varnish finish. It was traditionally a mixture of Tung Oil, varnish resins and thinners. It is a water, sun and UV resistant finish, and the word "Teak" comes from it being a marine wood finish, and that wood was traditionally either Teak or a Mahogany, hence the word "teak". Some manufacturers substitute Boiled Linseed or other oils for the Tung, and still call it a "Teak Oil".
So, whenever we mix Tung Oil, varnish, and thinner in a homebrew, we are making what could be called a "Teak Oil". Waterlox also fits the description of a "teak Oil" because it is resistant to water sun, and UV.
Dryers are added to make the mixture cure faster. Japan Dryer is the drying agent that is most readilly available to us. I only use it in the winter when the shop temperatures are below 65 degrees at night, and in the amount of no more than 2-ounce per quart of finish. I would never consider using it when temperatures are above 70.
Using Japan Dryer in an oil finish mixture in warm weather will shorten the shelf life of the mixed finish.
Thank You, Russ.
RevDoug
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