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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

A natural, durable finish with minimal coats and fuss popular among woodworkers, flooring professionals, and furniture makers

Deft masters? long

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Deft masters? long

#1

Deft masters? long

MFoster

>I am in the middle of finishing a segmented piece of holly and ebony. I painstakingly sanded the piece to keep the ebony dust out of the holly, and decided to try my standard finish of Waterlox. I immediately hated it. The amber glow I like so much with figured maples and the like, just did not work with the holly and ebony combo. So I sanded off the Waterlox then considered my options. I figured I could use either shellac, lacquer or water based poly. I really don't like polyurethane and have had a bad experience with shellac (plus I think shellac would also impart an amber glow), so I decided to try lacquer. My only previous experience with lacquer was finishing a cherry bedroom set of furniture with Deft brushing lacquer which I then hand rubbed for a soft finish.

I have a hvlp gun that works off a compressor, which I admit I have never used and did not want to experiment on this piece, so I decided to give spray Deft a try. Well I have applied several coats, but have experienced rather pronounced orange peel. Tonight I leveled it out with 320 grit stearated paper and gave it aonther light coat. My plan at this point is to lay on several more thin coats and then level again and try finishing the finish. I was just wondering if there is any way to prevent the orange peel, or if I am stuck with it due to the product I am using. I have never set up my shop for spraying because I don't like the idea of the hazards and I am usually very pleased with the results I get from Waterlox. Any suggestions on how I should proceed?

Re: Deft masters? long

#2

Re: Deft masters? long

Barry Turner

>Forget the spray equipment. Deft comes in spray cans with a decent spray nozzle. No getting ready to spray. No clean-up. It comes in satin, semi-gloss and gloss. It couldn't be easier. Save the spray outfit for larger items and furniture.

Re: Deft masters? long

#3

Re: Deft masters? long

Jim D.

>There are a number of things that cause orange peel with using lacquer. Since you are using a spray can make sure the coats are very light. Keep the van about 12" away. Be sure the coat is dry before applying another coat. keep the piece out of air flow, such as a fan. I do not know how hot it is where you are at, but I like to spray in a upper 60" or low 70 temperature to help prevent to fast of drying, which I found was the main cause when I had a problem with orange peel. If spraying out doors keep out of the sun!

I finish most of my work on the lathe using a brush or soft cloth. The pieces I spray I use Rustolium lacquer and have had no problems with it. Have not made anything big enough to get out the HVLP sprayer lately, but normally only use it on furniture.

Jim D.

Re: Deft masters? long

#4

Re: Deft masters? long

Les Robison

>I think the reason for the orange peel is the Waterlox you put on first. Even though you sanded it off, there is still some of the oil that penetrated into the wood fibers. Oil and Lacquer don't mix and that is why the orange peel. I would try a very light cut of shellac to seal in the Waterlox, then spray the lacquer. Hope this helps.

Re: Deft masters? long

#5

Re: Deft masters? long

Joe Herrmann

>I use spray Deft a lot and started to have significant problems with the semi gloss several years ago. I don't like a high gloss shine and even the semi gloss was a little too "bright" for me so I would cut it back with 4/0 steel wool. However, I discovered that Deft makes a "satin" gloss that I really like and have switched exclusively to that. Problems with orange peel have vanished completely.

Joe

Re: Deft masters? long

#6

Re: Deft masters? long

JanManuel

>Deft over danish oil is one of my favorite finishes and I've never had any problems doing so.

I use an airbrush to spray Deft.I thin it a little with acetone. Get light reflecting off your surface enough so you can see exactly how much you are putting on the surface. Too thin a coat will not flow out....Too wet will run. I had much trouble with drips/runs when I used the Deft spray cans. I usually brush on the first coat, straight out of the Deft can.

Re: Deft masters? long

#7

Re: Deft over an oil finish

Russ Fairfield

>Deft or any other lacquer will work very well over Waterlox or any other oil finish if you do two (2) things.

1 - Wait until the oil has CURED and the thinners have evaporated. This will take at least a week, 2-weeks is better, and it may take a month in the winter.

2 - Apply the first coat of Deft with a brush. Put on a sloppy coat and wipe it all off while it is still wet. The lacquer thinners in the Deft will remove any oils, fill the wood grain, and leave a primed surface that is ready for a sprayed finish of Deft or any other lacquer. Buff it lightly with 0000-wool to remove any streaks of finish on the surface.

Re: Deft masters? long

#8

Re: Deft over an oil finish

Ruth in So. Cal

>Can deft be used on a fruit bowl?

Re: Deft masters? long

#9

Thanks

MFoster

>Well I put another coat on last night and it seems to be going on better. First few layers may now be blocking what Waterlox finish may have been left behind. I am going to look at the satin gloss. If it goes on better, it may be worth giving it a try. I have Bob Flexners book on finishes and he makes it pretty clear that all you get with any satin finish, is additives that effectively work like chalk and break up the even gloss. He recommends to just use the gloss of any product, and knock back the gloss with steel wool or very fine sandpaper till you get the level of shine you want and I have generally gone by this advice.

As I was applying the first layers, and this last layer I was concerned with the uneven spray I seemed to be getting. Probably better atomization out of a gun, so I guess you get what you pay for. Thanks again for the advice.

Mike in sunny Vermont

Re: Deft masters? long

#10

Re: Can Deft be used on a salad bowl?

Russ Fairfield

>Why not? After all of the solvent has evaporated, what you have left is a film of celluloid on the surface of the wood. Celluloid is harmless. You can tell when the solvents have evaporated because there will be absolutely no odor of lacquer thinner, and that will take about 30 to 60 days.

The only problem with using a lacquer in a bowl comes when it is used for salad service. Whenever there is a surface film, there is always the possibility that there will be flakes of the finish in the lettuce when it starts to chip off from use. Other than getting stuck in your teeth, flakes of lacquer are harmless.

Re: Deft masters? long

#11

"Perhaps practice on scrap?"

Glenn Madsen in the SF Bay area

>or a small, test piece with fewer consequences of suboptimal results?

You have a lot of investment in that segmented piece, particularly with those woods. Reduce your stress!

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