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Norlk Island Pine Process

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Norlk Island Pine Process

#1

Norlk Island Pine Process

Ben Aragon

>NORFOLK ISLAND PINE

I posted a NIP bowl on Friday the 27th and have received several emails asking how I arrived at this bowl and how I accomplished different aspects. I thought I would post this message to consolidate the answers and describe processes I went through. I�m no kind of expert on NIP or woodturning for that matter, these are just the processes I went through. I�m sorry but this email is quite long.

OIL MIXTURE

1-gallon Boiled Linseed Oil.

1-gallon oil based varnish from Lowes.

1-gallon of Mineral Spirits.

All in a new 5-gallon bucket from Lowes.

The only reason I didn�t use 3 gallons of Danish oil is I couldn�t afford them. I had on hand a gallon of Boiled Linseed oil and a gallon of Oil Based Varnish I used on a fence, and I went out and bought a gallon of Mineral Spirits.

FORTIFY KNOTS

I treated the knots with CA glue through out the whole process. After rough turning I applied a sanding sealer to the knot area and filled any voids in the knots with coffee grounds and CA glue. All along the finish turning process you have to keep a close I on the knots if they become loose or develop chips you need to stop turning and repeat the CA glue fortifying process. If you stay on top of the knots they come out smooth as glass like the rest of the bowl.

I�m turning a second one right now and I have found it easier and these are the changes I made. The first problem is with drying a NIP bowl with alcohol, the bowl is very dry and the grain likes to tear, makes for a lot of sanding. I think this is why most people that make this kind of bowl soak them in a soap solution to stabilize them first, they finish turn better.

TURNING PROCESS

1) First Rough turn to 1� to 3/4� thick

2) Stabilize with the alcohol process, this is to prevent green wood from cracking.

3) Fortify knots; don�t forget to use sanding sealer around the area.

4) Second Rough turn to 1/4� to 5/16� thick.

5) Soak in oil solution over night and let dry the next day.

6) Fortify knots, all long process if needed.

7) Finish turn to 1/8� thick.

Steps 4 and 5 are the changes I made. The soaking in oil one time before the final finish turning really helped considerably with the tear out problem. The oil bulked up the wood fibers and lubricated the wood, it then cut beautifully.

THE OIL FINISH

This how I arrived at the translucent finish.

1) I would soak the piece over night in the oil solution.

2) Take it out to dry in the morning and let dry until I would get home from work at 5 PM.

3) Sand the piece and clean it, then soak again.

I did this for 6 days.

On the 7th day I buffed the bowl with the Beall buffing system.

CONCLUSION

There is nothing fast about making this type of bowl, take your time and have fun. I�m no kind of expert on NIP or woodturning for that matter, these are just the processes I went through. I hope this helps answer any questions. Here are two websites that will help http://www.ronkent.com/RKhome.html and http://home.earthlink.net/~puketarget/id1.html . If I can be of anymore help just ask.

Best Wishes,

Ben


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Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

#2

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

Charlie Anderson in Southern Maryland

>Thanks for the instructions Ben. Looks like I have some work ahead.

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

#3

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

Jim Davies, Clayton, NJ

>I love the effect on the NIP. That piece looks great! Have you tried this on any other woods?

Jim D.

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

#4

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

GaryG in MD

>Ben, Thanks for your time and trouble. What a glorious result! I'm sure you have encouraged others to give it a try. I can't wait to see more results like yours. ...Gary

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

#5

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

Ben Aragon

>Jim,

Not yet but I plan to. I have some Arizona Cypress I think I might try it on.

Ben

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

#6

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

Ben Aragon

>Gary,

No trouble at all I enjoy spending my time this way. I have obtained so much information from WC I thought that I should start to contribute something back.

Ben

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

#7

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

Jim Davies, Clayton, NJ

>I may give something like this a try on some cherry burl I have. I normally give a few coats of oil and then a few lacquer which is much quicker, but I love the looks of this finish.

Jim D.

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

#8

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

Gary Evans, Tallassee, TN

>Hi Jim,

My understanding is that hardwoods don't react the same to the oil soak as do pine and other softwoods. The difference in cell structure is the reason.

I'd be interested in seeing your results.

Gary

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

#9

Re: Norlk Island Pine,my pic

Hawaii Turner

>Aloha, everyone,

After viewing Bens beautiful piece, I decided to post one of mine also.

Many of us here in Hawaii, have used(copied) Ron Kents process.If you go to Kelly Dunn's website, he has been soaking NIP for longer then I know him, about 10 years. It is a wonderful experience to pull out a piece from the vat that is rich and warm that was rather pale and cold going in. If the piece is spalted, so much the better.

My process is similar, but slightly different in that I completely sand my piece before any soaking, and I leave it soaking for 5-10 days before removing it, the first time.After completely drying, which might take a week in open air and 1-2 days in my refrig 'Kiln',,I then inspect, spot sand(wet with finish) buff with white diamond, and then dip or just wet the finish on with a paper towel, and after about 1/2 hr. dry completely with a paper towel. After drying over night, I repeat as many times as I feel is necessary.I complete with a white diamond buffing and Renaissance Wax.

Aloha, Doug


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Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

#10

Re: Norlk Island Pine Process

Jim Davies, Clayton, NJ

>The piece I was going to try an "oil soak" on is too large for my microwave and is drying after an alcohol soak. From what I have been told it will probably be a month before it is dry.

I do have a couple of smaller pieces of the cherry burl though and a couple pieces of hard maple small enough to MW. Also picked up three pieces of "Y" today from a beech. I can see some playing coming on in the next week or two. Be more than happy to share the results.

Jim D.

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