signing work

Re: signing work

Ed Kelle

>For a while I was using a fine line Sharpie, but what I noticed was that it was wearing off during the finishing process. I like oil finishes and the wiping was removing some of the ink. Then I saw that Jennifer was using a Dremel engraver and I have been using that. I like the fact that the it is not changing the color of the wood. I'm just not too thrilled with my own handwriting, can't blame the tool for that one. They sell for $20 so it's worth a try, I am sure you can use it for texture as well.

Re: signing work

Fog Tanner

>Ruth,

I use two methods. One is a small woodburing set. I use this on some woods, such as cedar either before or after the finish, depending on the finish. If its on the lathe I do it after I take it off. If it is an oil finish that I will buff out, I do it before the oil (Minwax Antique).

I also use an engraver pen/stylus. I will either do this after the finish if I am going to fill it with gold. I learned that from Cindy Droza. If I am dying a piece I will use it before I dye the wood. If I use liming or patinating wax, the name will be filled with the wax and standout. If I don't use the wax, the name is still visible and looks better than doing it after the dying. I was showing one of the members in our club how to use his engraver, it wouldn't work right for me or him. I had to change the setting on it and finally got it to work correctly. The setting was too hard and he couldn't get a flowing signiture. After I changed his settings he was able to write his name - with some practice. The same was true for the woodburing tips, just had to find the right one and practice on some 2x4s..

I have not tried a pen as I have had smudge problems in the past, but there may be one that works.

Re: signing work

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>Ruth, I use a Dremel engraver. I've tried every method you can think of from ink pens, to burning, you name it and I always seem to come back to the engraver. It has an adjustable vibration setting from 1-5 and I usually leave it on 2 to get the best results for writing my name. I think I got mine at Lowes for $19.99 or something like that. I also use it for texturing too. You can play with the vibration setting to get different texturing affects.

Jennifer

dremel engraver

John Lucas

>Me too. I've tried all sorts of pens and several different wood burning tips and I like the dremel engraver. Like Jen said I have to play with the setting a little but usually use is somewhere around 2. I've had mine so long that it's getting harder to write with it. I think I've worn something so the tip doesn't run true. I'm going to buy a new one shortly and use this one just for texturing.

Re: dremel engraver

John Lucas

>ruth

I had to stop and take a photo and lost my train of thought. That trains usually on the wrong track anyway.

What I was going to say is that a light touch is better than a heavy one when using the dremel engraver. What I like about it is that it's very easy to read your name in most woods, light or dark with the exception of woods with high contrast figure such as Zebra wood where you have light and dark areas right next to each other. Even in these woods it works well if you can keep the signature in one color or the other.

Re: dremel engraver

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>John,

I see that Dremel has come out with a new design. It looks like it's more ergonomic friendly and easier to hold. Might be a good excuse to buy a new one :)

Jen

Re: dremel engraver

John Lucas

>Jennifer, that's the excuse I'll use. We have a hardware store that is closing and everything is on sale, all the dremel stuff was gone before I got there.

Re: dremel engraver

Keith Tompkins

>hey John, that sounds like a great idea for a project....LOL

Re: signing work

Dick Hines

>I use a Detail Master "Excaliber". I have tow handpieces. One the tips can be replaced, this is the one I use for branding. The other is the 6A tip. I file it to a fine point. Do this very carefully because you can cut through the tip and there goes the tip.

Re: signing work

barry

>I have tried several methods, too. I seem to like the Dremel engraver the best. It's the one I keep coming back to. It works best on end grain on a very hard wood like maple. I have had some success with a medium pencil on the bare wood before finishing. I have used Sharpies but have had some problem with fading and smearing. I have never figured out if it works better under or over the finish,

Re: dremel engraver

GaryG in MD

>Does anyone have part numbers for the old one vs. the new one? ...Gary

also...

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>If the engraved signature is hard to read....sometimes I'll use liming wax to highlight it on darker woods...or a Q-tip with a dab of a dark stain on lighter woods. Usually a dab of what ever oil I used on the piece will fill the signature and give it a darker look and that is enough though.

: )

Re: dremel engraver *LINK*

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>Gary, I don't have the numbers...but the old one is black ..and the new one is a light blue and gray with a rubbery grip on it. Slightly more slender and looks like it would be easier to hold. Here's a pic of the old model...and a link to the new one.

Jen




New Dremel Engraver

Re: signing work

Jim King

>Does anyone have any experience with burning the signature ( a branding iron ? ) and if it is OK where can I buy it.

Re: signing work

Ed Kelle

>Hopefully you are talking about a real branding iron, the type that signs your name or initials at once. I have a branding iron, and honestly, it frustrated me to death. I used it on a bunch of jewelry boxes and the trouble I always had was that is is nearly impossible to tell if you have burned it all, or gotten it dark enough. Once you remove it, there is no way to put it back without at least a partial overlap somewhere. I have the plug in electric model but there is also one which you heat up on your own. I believe you can get them custom made thru Woodcraft or maybe even woodworkers supply. I think they cost about $70 and up

On another note, I entered my boxes in a show and was told by all the judges NOT to use a branding iron to sign my works ( even though it was on the backs. It might be fine for production stuff just they did not think highly of them for show pieces. And I see their point now, so I am using the Dremel

better than ordinary marker...

bill tindall

>If you go to an art supply they will have pens with Archival Ink. For example Micron Brand and they come in a great variety of tip diameters.

I use the the black 005 for marking walnut. It makes a line as fine as a knife mark and it stands out in ordinary light. I also use this fine marker for signing small items like christmas ornaments. You can make a signature with letters 1 mm high.

Re: dremel engraver

GaryG in MD

>Thanks Jennifer! That's exactly what I needed. I've been enjoying this thread because (like many others, I see) I haven't been happy with the results of the Sharpie. ...Gary

Re: signing work

Mike Schwing from Md.

>I use a pen frequently and I don't worry about it rubbing off. I do this on a utility piece that will get wet and abused anyway and eventually I might not want anyone to know it is my work.

I have also used my Powercrafter (air powered dental drill) for signing. it works pretty well but not perfect.

I'm working on a method right now, trying to perfect it, where I apply a piece of frisket film (clear, extremely thin masking used for airbrushing), and use the powercrafter to sign "through" it, then with the frisket still in place, I airbrush color into it. Its not ready for prime time yet but if I can work out a few snags it will be extremely cool.

Cindy Drozda showed us what she does. She uses a Dremel engraver, and then fills it with a colored wax pencil, then sands it smooth. Looks great, and if my new method doesn't work I'm going to fall back to hers.

Re: signing work

Jim King

>Just goes to say that when one is not in the group in command and in a lost outpost as we are here one is lost. I thought that burning was in favor. Now I am lost again. I think signing with pens looks cheap. I just got some clear plastic for our printer and it is expensive but it looks as if it came from a bad discount store when applied. You have got me more lost than ever. Any more suggestions ��

Re: signing work *LINK*

Ed Kelle

>Didn't mean to confuse you, I just did not have good luck with this branding iron I used. Think of it as a stamp pad, that is what I am talking about. Here is a link and hopefully you will understand it clearer. It burns your name in one shot.

This is different from a woodburning pen that you can use to write your name.

The iron might be what you are looking for, I was just not happy with the results it gave me. I had never tried it on any of my turnings, so I do not know if it would work well with them.

Hope this clears it up for you a bit. Good luck!


branding iron

Re: signing work

Jim King

>Thanks, I just sent an order to the States, I hope to have my first Branding Iron signature in a month or so. It might be out of style but I am to .

Re: signing work

Ed Kelle

>Nah. no such thing as out of style.

Good luck to you Jim! Be sure to post of pic of it sometime

Re: signing work

ruth in So. Cal

>WOW!! thanks for all the speedy responses. The dremel engraver got the most praise so I will go and try one out this weekend. I also like the sound of what Cindy Droza does and may give that a try for comparison. Thanks very much, this has been a great help.

Ruth

Re: signing work

Duane C.Leach

>Ruth. Looks like every body has their own way of signing their work. I just use a black ball point pin.

For me, the branding irons made the piece look like it was produced in a factory in some far off third world country. Signing my work with bright sparkly colours made it look goady and cheap. I even tryed a woodburners pen but it came out looking like a fourth grader had used a magnifying glass on it.

I have yet to find anything that dignifies or personifies high artistic value better than the artists own personal signature.

What ever you do try to find a voice of your own.

But that's just my opinion and what the heck do I know.

Duane Leach