Cheap accelerant for CA
Eaglesc
>I know squat about bowlturning but I turn pens and do laminations and glue ups.
I have seen CA mentioned here so I thought I would post this.
I posted this on the IAP forum but thought I would post it here also.
"When I glue up tubes I use CA exclusively, I like the idea I can glue,the tubes and turn my pens as soon as I cut and mill to length.
Until recently I didn't mind using the little accelerant I did because it kept my blanks from sticking to where ever I set them down.
When I started gluing my spirals I found that I was using a lot of acclerant for a small area.
I tried the pump bottle accelerant but I have found for me it evaporates too quickly(Loss from the bottle)
I like the aerosol but my local supplier charges $12.00 a can even though another supplier(4 hours away round trip) sells the same thing for $6.95.
In a moment of desperation I filled a pump bottle with denatured alcahol and gave a glue joint a "spritz" .
It foamed up white and "set" ALMOST as well as regular accelerant.
I don't normally accelerant if I use CA as a finish, just after gluing in tubes as I described earlier or adding oops rings or CB'S.
Alcohol is a lot cheaper than "purchased accelerant"
So far other than the foaming(which gets turned off) I have found no ill effects in using it.
I had contemplated using acetone but the only container ever tried filling with it melted.
The alcohol is the way to go.
In the spiral I have pictured I used alcohol to cure the glue and turned the same day.
You may want to try this if you use CA or run out of accelerant.
If this is a model builders tip forgive me for posting what I thought a money/time saving idea (Hey, I'm frugal!).
I have never seen this suggestion offered."
There were replys to my post suggesting other alternatives,water, baking soda, I had even tought of ammonia, but alcohol was at hand and for different resons I chose the DNA.
One more thought.
On another piece I had lammed(scrap) I "spritzed" one piece with alcohol and applied CA to the other. I then pressed together and held for a few seconds.
I tried to break it apart and could not.
The joint held just as it does wit the "store bought" stuff.
As I said it does"foam" but I normally turn that off, I don't know what the appearance of the joint looks like.(It's still glued together)
Take the tip for what it's worth,It worked for me your mileage may vary.
( If you try it,try at your own risk)
