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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

Portable Sawmill & Tree Service – Abingdon, VA

Waxing Questions

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Waxing Questions

#1

Waxing Questions

Dan Lanicek in TX

>I don't think I get waxing. On some of my turnings I apply the finish (usually lacquer) either on or off the lathe then apply paste wax off the lathe.

I put on a thin coat of paste wax, let it sit for about a minute, then rub it off with a cloth. The waxed piece does not look much different from when it was unwaxed. Isn't wax supposed to make the piece glossier?

Am I applying it wrong? Am I not buffing hard enough? Would a loose linen buffing wheel mounted on an electric drill be better than buffing by hand? I'd love to get the Beall buffing system but I don't have the cash right now.

Also, how long to do wait between the last coat of finish and waxing the piece? Can I apply lacquer, wait 5 minutes or so, then wax the piece on the lathe?

Re: Waxing Questions

#2

Re: Waxing Questions

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>I would give even a thin seal coat overnight to "out-gas" before waxing.

I used to wax my lacquered pieces, but found that almost any wax gets milky looking from moisture as some point, and waxed pieces seemed to show finger prints more than lacquer w/o wax.

I do use wax on an oil finish.

Mark

Re: Waxing Questions

#3

Re: Waxing Questions

Lan Brady

>What I have always thought about wax is not make it glossier. It is intended as a sacrifical finish so that the real finish is not as easily damaged. Wax replaces itself, it does not build up with successive coats.

Just my opinion, Lan

Re: Waxing Questions

#4

Re: Waxing Questions

Bob Edwards

>I use a lot of lacquer and have found waxing unnecessary. If anything it collects dust and finger prints that dull the finish. If you like lacquer but want more gloss you might look to your process. Lacquer does not build one coat on top of another but rather etches each coat into the previous so that the total numger of applications become one coat. I would still advise waiting at least 12 hours between coats to sand and 24 to 36 after the final coat to do a buff. I sand to 400 between each coat and after the final coat I hand buff or polish with a rouge or fine rock grinding compound. The sort you put in a tumbler to polish rocks.

Hope this helps

Bob Edwards, San Antonio

Re: Waxing Questions

#5

Re: Waxing Questions

Dan Lanicek in TX

>It appears I have a lot to learn about lacquer finishes. I've been applying my lacquer with about 5 minutes between coats sanding with 600 in between. It was my impression that once the last coat is dry to the touch it's good for another coat.

Re: Waxing Questions

#6

Re: Waxing Questions

John Lucas

>Dan

I have found wax will make some finishes glossier but most glossy finishes are better than wax. I use wax to make the piece "feel" smoother. Customers can tell the difference. I use Johnsons'paste wax and it doesn't show finger prints as bad as some wax's.

Haley Smith suggested using Renesance wax to prevent fingerprints but I have't had a chance to try it yet.

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#7

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Hawaii Turner

>Aloha, I have used Renaissnce wax for several years now, and it does enhance the shine and does not seem to fingerprint. Lasts a long time too.I apply it over my Danish Oil finished work, but I allow 1 week of drying, then buff with White Diamond, then polish.

Doug

Re: Waxing Questions

#8

Re: Waxing Questions *LINK*

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>If you are looking for a high gloss finish, I would suggest 3 heavy (not so heavy it runs) coats 5-10 minutes apart. There is no reason to sand between coats, unless you are in a really dirty environment and have lots of dust nibs. With a good quality Lacquer (not Deft), you can sand again and apply more after 12-24 hours (depending on the temp and humidity). Usually need at least 36 hours before final sanding and buffing. Wet sand to at least 1500 grit and then use an automotive swirl applied by hand to really make it shine.

Check out my results on my website.

Mark


http://www.markkauder.com

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#9

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DWFII

>What's a good lacquer? And what do you use for wet sanding? More lacquer?

DW

In the High Desert of Central Oregon

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#10

JL

Re: Waxing Questions

JL

>OK, I'm wierd, I admit it. I usually use Renaissance wax on my tools. It keeps the planes gliding smooth without leaving build-up or marks on the work piece. I tried it on a bowl or two and didn't think the cost justified the results. I usually use Bri or my own mix of beeswax and carnuba (please don't tell my wife I used the double boiler!).

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#11

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John Lucas

>Thanks Doug It's expensive but Haley said the can lasts a long time. When I hve some money to spare I 'll order some.

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#12

Re: Waxing Questions

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>DW,

Anything but Deft....no not really. There are things I use Deft on, but Deft contains retarders so that the brush marks flow out, but it also causes the lacquer to cure very, very slowly. As a comparison, if I spray Deft, I will not be able to sand it and get a dry powder form it for about 36 hours. With a lacquer w/o those retarders, I can sand in 18-24 hours or less.

For Bowls, I currently use either Behlen's Stringed Instrument Lacquer or (my favorite) McFadden's Guitar Polishing Lacquer. Both are formulated to take the punishment that musicians put on their instruments, but be flexible enough for the movement of the thin wood of a violin or acoustic guitar - a situation not unlike a bowl. I came to these conclusion though discussions with Sam Simpson (finishing chatroom) when I visited him in Houston.

The Behlens is pretty readily available, but only by the quart, and is expensive that way. The McFadden's is generally only available by the gallon or 5 gallon directly from McFadden's in Philly. They also do not sell to the public (you can pretend to be a business, they require no proof). You will pay a hazmat fee (about $25), same fee for 1 gallon or 5. So I buy 5. Cost is about $33 a gallon, plus shipping.

Wet sanding = sanding dry lacquer, buy hand, with wet/Dry sandpaper, lubricated by water (or mineral spirits). I do it with the bowl in my lap on a towel while watching TV or the Wednesday Chatroom.

I hope this helps.

Mark

Re: Waxing Questions

#13

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RonZ

>General paste wax [carnauba/bee/tolulyne] such as Briwax or Mylands does not work well with regular laquer nor is it needed. It will also not give you a shiney finish. paste wax is best applied with 0000 steel wool on the lathe, let dry [a few minutes] and the buff while turning. This will leave a smooth matt sheen. This form of wax was originally made for use after shellac based finishes such as friction polish. It works well with sanding sealer and melamine which are tolulyne based. It can even be used on are wood. In any event, the wax is meant to be a protective coating for the finish. If your main reason for using wax is fingerprints, then use a micrcrystalline based wax like Renaissance.

Haley Smith suggested using Renesance wax to prevent fingerprints but I have't had a chance to try it yet.

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#14

Re: Waxing Questions

DWFII

>Thanks Mark....

DW

In the High Desert of Central Oregon

Re: Waxing Questions

#15

Re: Waxing Questions

John K Jordan

>I used Renaissance wax on glossy turnings but I can't see any difference. But it is certainly good on the top of lathe tool rest, ways, and the especially the bandsaw table.

JKJ in East TN

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