0000 vs. synthetic?

Re: 0000 vs. synthetic?

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>Gary, I too am curious about this same question. I just purchased a packgae of Liberon 0000 steel wool but have yet to use it. I'll be curious to read what people say about it's comparison to standard 0000, as well as the synthetics.

Jennifer

Re: 0000 vs. synthetic?

GaryG in MD

>Another night owl! ;-) We'll see what happens tomo. ...GG

Re: 0000 vs. synthetic?

RonZ

>First, I have tried many steel [0000] wools and only one should be used, Liberon. This isn't just my conclusion, it's also the conclusion of most professionals. All you have to do is touch and squeeze them to feel the difference.

You take a piece a little larger than you need, cut it off with a pair of scissors. If you tear it you can get metal particles on your work and you can possibly cut yourself. Make sure your sanding sealer or finish is dry first. If you're using Myland's sanding sealer or melamine this will be less than a minute. Fold back all sides and corners underneath the steel wool so you have a pad and the corners won't get caught in the work. Depending on how much you cut off, it should be enough to finish a piece. I also use a magnet to store while not in use.

The main reason why steel wool is used over synthetic is price. I also have a large roll of about a mile or two long so I won't be changing any time soon. I have used synthetic and it is better to a degree but not enough to warrant the price difference IMHO. I used to use 3m abrasive pads for pens and they worked fine and were able to be used several times. Once I bought Mirka paper and fold it in threes to get a little padding, it gives similar results as the pads but costs less.

I do production work for a living so again, the cost factor is what keeps me from using them. If you're a hobbyist and can afford the difference, then go for it.

In the picture is my sanding center with the Mirka paper and my li' ol' roll of 0000 steel wool.

Re: 0000 vs. synthetic?

Mike Schwing from Md.

>I totally agree with Ron about Liberon and continued use of good ol' 4 aught over synthetic pads. I have nothing other than practical experience - no scientific tests, but I have yet to find a synthetic product that can match 4/0 for its cutting ability, and its propensity to leave a sensuous, tactile sheen on a work surface. I'm sure its there, but despite steel wool's tendancy to shed and break apart (as its designed to) I can't find another product that does the job as well. The closest I've found is the new higher grit 3M papers, but they're pricey when used the way I use steel wool, ie..with lubricants, finishing oils, etc..

What other product will let you put a piano sheen on a surface the way dragging a piece of 4/0 wool across it will? (please do tell!)

Jennifer - you will find the Liberon product doesn't fall apart nearly as readily as the lesser wools do.

Re: 0000 vs. synthetic?

Ron in Drums PA

>I used to use steel wool allot, not so much any more. Liberon is the best. I never cared for synthetics. I've also tried brass wool, a bit pricey, but I didn't have to worry about any stray wool fibers rusting.

synthetics aren't colorfast

Terry Daniel

>The color on the color-coded synthetics transfers into the wood which is especially noticeable on light colored wood. I have quit using it as a result. Liberon is the best as of now.

TD

Re: synthetics aren't colorfast

JamieDonaldson

>I have been using the gray and white synthetic pads for years, and will not likely ever use steel wool again. The synthetics stick to velcro pad holders and allow me to power buff very efficiently, and I don't buff to a shine very often with gadgets like the buffing wheels with compounds- I like a smooooth sheen that is wonderful to touch for most of my finished pieces.

Re: 0000 vs. synthetic?

GaryG in MD

>Ron, Thanks for the info & pic. Now THAT'S a roll! ...GG

Re: 0000 vs. synthetic?

GaryG in MD

>Thanks for the replies. Good info. ...GG