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rough turning green wood

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rough turning green wood

#1

rough turning green wood

DWFII

>Jeff,

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I know the general outlines of how to do this but the details kind of escape me.

Do you Anchorseal the whole bowl? Inside and out? How does the bowl dry through the coating of wax?

Once coated, do you wrap the bowl in a paper bag or just leave it fully exposed to air?

Have you (or anyone else, please...) ever tried covering or burying a bowl in its own wet shavings? What is the procedure there and does that work? Any faster? any slower?

thanks again....

DW

In the High Desert of Central Oregon

Re: rough turning green wood

#2

my observations on drying

DWFII

>Steve,

Somehow this thread is splitting nad showing up all over...I must have posted in the wrong spot or something. I apologize to all...

Anyway, I appreciate your observations. This is the kind of thing I am looking for. I am a raw beginner (well, that's not entirely true) and I don't have ready access to wood. I got some "cut-offs" of big leaf from a fellow turner and have been working with what I could salvage using highly unrealistic optimism as my guide. I'm not having much luck with alcohol. this is not a criticsm of the method...I readily admit I don't know what I'm doing. (And I read the instructions).

My first attempt was a piece of black locust that should have been good...no micro-cracks, it had been sealed since it was cut. But despite following the instructions to a tee, it cracked the first night out of the alcohol. I filled the crack with CA and painted the end grain with Anchorseal and no problems since. But that's not the way Dave says to do it.

All my big leaf has cracked alcohol or not. Anchorseal or not. One hollow form cracked when I turned off the lathe and sharpened a gouge.

So I've been looking for a sure, or at least better, way of dealing with roughouts.

[sigh]

DW

In the High Desert of Central Oregon

Re: rough turning green wood

#3

Re: my observations on drying

Carole in VA

>DW,

Ther are others who are much more informed in this than I am and I am sure they will respond, but I will relay my limited experience. Was your wood trunk wood,crotch wood, limb wood or what? I have found that limb wood and crotch wood cracks much more often than straight grain trunk wood. I suppose this is due to the reaction wood. Are your rough turned bowls an even thickness? I have found that if they are not, I can get some stresses that cause cracks. I have had no problem with maple cracking, but so far, it has only been trunk wood.

Re: rough turning green wood

#4

Re: rough turning green wood

jeff jilg

>I posted a lengthy set of answers on the AAW forum.

Re: rough turning green wood

#5

Re: rough turning green wood

tek-Brunswick, Ohio

>You should talk to Sean and Wally and the other turners out in desert country. You have more cracking out there because your low humidity dries the wood out too fast. See what works for them. I believe most of them seal the whole bowl inside and out. They will also put a plastic bag over a piece that is on the lathe when they need to leave it. I think the use a rubber band to hole the plastic bag shut by the foot of the bowl.What works in Ohio and Virginia may not work in your desert conditions.

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