Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998
gluing exotics (all the help i can get)
Georg Waldhof
>yes, i asked this question on another list, but want maximum information from those experienced. need to assemble something combining several exotics, specificaly, lacewood, bocote, cocobolo and possibly purpleheart.
What glue would anyone recommend, particularly if some of this assembly needed to be turned?
Thanks
George
Epoxy
RevDoug
>
what one experienced person uses...
John K Jordan
>When David Marks was in our area for a turning class recently I asked him just that. From a message I posted here in March:
"...I asked what kind of glue he used for things difficult to glue such as cocobolo and ebony. (He showed a stunning sycamore bowl with an ebony ring made of glued segments) He took me out into the Woodcraft store and picked up a can of Nelson Urac Resin Adhesive 185 (comes with a powdered hardner) and said "Use this - works great!" The can indicates a 30 minute working time and a 2-10 hour curing time, depending on temperature."
JKJ in East TN
Re: gluing exotics (all the help i can get)
Bryan T
>Wipe the joint with acetone first to remove any oils that may be present then I would epoxy as is the best I have found. An outfit called RAKA out of FL has some good stuff and Larry is the owner operator who can answer any question you could ever have about working with epoxy. Also I would also get the FREE book on working with epoxy from West Systems who also makes epoxy although they are very expensive for the glue.
Re: what one experienced person uses...
Glenn Madsen in the SF Bay area
>Tonight, I watched the TiVo'd presentation of DJM making that bowl on his show. IIRC, he used 5 minute epoxy on the telecast, to secure the ebony segmented ring.
Nice bowl.
Re: what one experienced person uses...
John K Jordan
>To be more clear, Marks didn't say he used the resin glue on that particular bowl, but recommended it in general for woods normally difficult to glue.
JKJ in East TN
Re: gluing exotics (all the help i can get)
Anthony
>Look into the new 2P-10.It's a glue that actualy glues end grain to end grain,melamine to melamin,and has a 10 second workinig time.One part is a gel,and the other,a spray can of accelerator.
Re: gluing exotics (all the help i can get)
David Lykins - Marietta GA - guitardude
>I use almost all exotics on my solid body electrics, and usually laminate a top and back together for the body blank of which is glued with either Titebond Original or Titebond II (I haven't tried the TB III yet). Anyway, I use a lot or most of the scrap peices of wood to make bottle stoppers, pens/pencils, Christmas tree ornaments and stuff like that.
Check my post on the other side to see PICs
Re: gluing exotics (all the help i can get)
Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL
>Like David, I too work almost exclusively with exotics. I have used TB, TB II, hot Hide Glue, and CA.
Of the above the only joint failures that I have had have been with CA.
I put the joint through alot of stress in turning, and never a problem with TB. Purpleheart, Bloodwood, Cocobolo, Ebony, Yellowheart, Canarywood, Tulipwood.....does not matter.
I have heard the "Wipe it with Acetone" recommendation for years, and cannot say that it is a bad recommendation, but what I have heard recently is the all oily exotics will glue better if they are glue soon after cutting, scraping or sanding the glued edge w/o wiping with anythin.
Just my opinion and experience. Your mileage may vary.
Mark
One last note
David Lykins - Marietta GA - guitardude
>Typically when an electric guitar is strung up, the preasure on the neck is somewhere around 120 to 160 lbs, so why am I mentioning this.
Almost ALL guitar necks have a fingerboard made of some type of exotic wood (usually rose wood, or ebony and sometimes maple)thats glued onto the neck. And a majority of guitar companies use Titebond to do the glue up.
I short, if you glued your turning blank with Titebond it should take at least 200+ lbs of force to break the glue joint. However, my guess it that the wood would split/break first.
Just a thought.
Re: One last note
Georg Waldhof
>but is there really any pressure on a fingerboard? I think the pressure is between the neck and the body, which are usually not exotics.
Still, I think I'm going to try the TBII since I have it and this piece won't be under that much stress except while turning, and I can bolt several of the parts together for that.
Deepest gratitude to all - i've made notes of all this information.
George
