Sanding question

Re: Sanding question

John K Jordan

>Ken,

I do much of my sanding by hand. I use power sanding, often with the lathe turned off and rotated back and forth by hand, then sand by hand even on some of the coarser grits but especially with the finer grits. This lets me sand with the grain instead of with the rotation of the sander. Sanding by hand also lets me see when the earlier sanding scratches are removed, or on occasion, keeps me from wasting time fine sanding when I notice some damage that can only be fixed with a coarser grit or with the gouge. If all sanding is done the same way, power sanding scratches from one grit can mask deeper scratches from an earlier grit. (Reversing the lathe rotation for alternating grits can help with this as well.)

When sanding by hand, you do have to be careful with coarser grits to not create a "flat" spot while trying to fix a problem area. This is not usually an issue with the finer grits.

JKJ in East TN

Re: Sanding question

Fog Tanner

>I bought one of the rotary sanders from Vic Wood. I use it with 220 and up. I generally hand sand with the courser grits, including 220. But, I resand with the 220 on the rotary sander just to get rid of the sanding marks. The rotary sander doens't leave the marks that you can get from hand or power sanding. And since I have started using Shellawax for most of my bowl finishing, I use their EEE-Ultrashine. This is a wax with an abrasive in it which takes it down evern more and gets rid of those last sanding marks.

Re: Sanding question

Wally Dickerman in Arizona

>I've been using the Vic Wood inertia sander since it first came out. About 10 years ago. If I've done a good job with shear scraping, I can usually start with 150 or 180 grit. I do this with the inertia sander. I then hand sand through the grits until 600, when I use the inertia sander again. This is followed by hand sanding with 1500

Wally