Tool handle lengths

Longer is better...

Peter Teubel

>All my handles for bowl tools (especially scrapers) are 20"+ and made from cocobolo or other exotic, hard, and heavy woods. Some of my spindle tools have custom handles, but they are about the same length as stock handles.

Sorta Hijack! Cocobolo for handles?

steve antonucci

>Have you found that using Cocobolo for something that you hold that long left you itchy at all? I've been debating using a variety of "exotics" to be able to differentiate my tools more easily, and I love the look (and the weight) of the rosewoods, but haven't taken the leap yet since of the toxicity.

Any thoughts?

Steve

Re: Sorta Hijack! Cocobolo for handles?

GaryNelson

>Steve--I have not had a problem with rosewood.I found it is the sap that is the problem.The dust as well,but once it is made there is no more dust.One can all of a sudden develop an allergic reaction.So even though I am ok now--it may not be forever.

But you only live once--go for the beauty of the cocobolo.There are many rosewoods that are so nice.There is a place In St Pete Fla that sells rosewoods at a great price.Gary

Re: Tool handle lengths

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>For the most part, I like handles that are long and heavy - I use the Oneway and Trent Bosch handles filled with lead shot.

However - in a Stuart Batty demo last weekend, he stated that for control, (let me see if I can word this correctly): you need 5 times the length of the amount of tool hung over the tool rest, behind the tool rest. That is, if you are hanging a gouge/scraper over the tool rest 4", you need 20" on the back side of the tool rest (remaining gouge and handle combined).

Sounds like a good starting point for me.

Mark

Re: Tool handle lengths

gary clarke

>Craig, purple heart is terrible for handles you better send your purple heart to me :)

Re: Tool handle lengths

John Lucas

>Mark

I thought Stewart had a good point. One problem with long or heavy handles is sharping. It's much harder to keep the tool and jig in place with really long heavy handles. I think that's why Clay Foster makes his handles so you can remove the tool. this way you have a very short light tool to control when sharpining.

I have my "Big" bowl gouge that I use for roughing really out of round pieces. It's hell to sharpen. I need a 4 foot circle clear all around my grinder to do this one and reallly have to concentrate on holding the Oneway jig into the V to keep it aligned.

Re: Tool handle lengths

Mark Kauder. Phenix City, AL

>John,

I absolutely agree, that is why all my big/long handles are removable with a couple of set screws (luckily all use the same allen wrench). It takes about 10 extra seconds to remove the handle, but is much much easier to get a good smooth sharpening.

Right now, I have two of each of my favorite sizes (3/8"- (P&N and Sorby), 1/2" (Sorby and Sweezey), and 5/8" (P&N and Sorby)(all American measurement)). Since seeing Stuart's sharpening demo, I have ground all the Sorby's to his 40 degree grind, since he favors the Sorby flute profile for his grind and I kept the other gouges ground with the fingernail grind that I get with a Veri-grind jig. That way I am able to compare. I like his grind for solid wood, but still prefer the fingernail grind for my segmented (no end grain) bowls - I find it more versatile.

I have my grinder set up with an 80 grit wheel on the left with the Veri-Grind, and the right side has the grinding tool rest set up for the 40 degree grind with a 100 grit wheel.

Mark

I'll show you my setup when you come on Friday.