Wax finish question

Re: Wax finish question

John Trant (Baltimore/DC area)

>Yes wax will work as a finish. It looks good initally but it has no protective or wearable properties. Raffan uses beeswax but carnuba is much harder.

John

Re: Wax finish question

Carles, in Barcelona

>I prefer a mixture of 20% carnauba wax and 80% beewax but I aply a thin coat of sealer before

Re: Wax finish question

Fog Tanner

>If you read the books on finishing, wax by itself does not afford any protection and not generally considered a finish. Like a lot of other turners, I have and still use the Raffan oil and wax method. I like this on those pieces that are intended to be handled on a frequent basis. The intent is for the piece to develop that patina that can only be acquired through time and use.

For this use I use the softer wax, such as beeswax, which can be reapplied. The harder waxes which require heat, like carnuba, cannot generally be repaired by the eventual custonian. This is the same praictice as Chris Stott, Key, and Raffan. On some of the pieces that I make which will be "dust collectors" and just sit on the shelf, I have used the Beal buffing system on the bare wood (cedar) and over oil (mineral, linseed,etc). This has worked well over time.

I have just acquired some of the "Traditional Wax" from U-Beaut in Australia. I like this better than the straight beeswax and will most likely be ordering some more from Auzzieland. If you are looking for an easy finish for you bowls try their Shellawax Cream and their EEE-Ultrashine. You can get anywhere from a satin to gloass finish, and its as easy as using the beeswax.

A turner simply isn't civilized unless you have a larger selection of waxes and finishes at you disposal than your local supply store....

"Better turning through chemistry"

Re: Wax finish question

Eduardo Sarmiento Hall-Lima Peru

>well I use sanding sealer and neutral shoe polish (kiwi)

Re: Wax finish question

Jim Pugh, Ohio

>Ken, a can of Minwax Finishing wax is mighty handy to have around. You can use it as the only finish; as the last coat; to put on torn end grain inside the bowl to help cut/sand it away and it is good for the surface of your table saw, etc. Butcher wax or any other uncolored furniture/floor type wax will work.

A neat magic potion is 1 part beeswax to 5 parts mineral oil by volume. I use it for bowls that will be used with food.

Good Book On Finishes *LINK*

Ron in Drums PA

>"Great Wood Finishes" by Jeff Jewitt

It's mostly about flat woodworking, but there is still a wealth of information within.

Jeff also has a webste where he will answer questions


Homestead Finishing Products

Re: Good Book On Finishes

Doug Trembath

>I whole heartedly second your recommendation of Jeff's fine reference on wood finishing. Sometimes there seems to be a disconnect among woodworkers, and a general belief that what works on one type of work won't work on another. My experience has been that any finishing regime is transportable from one genre to another. Different levels of surface prep is common, however, but the applications are the same. For instance, many flat woodworkers feel the need to seal endgrain to prevent the soaking up of the finish, yet we round guys routinely eliminate that problem by sanding to much higher grits. Applying this technique to furniture work has pretty much eliminated the sealing step for me.

Jeff knows just about everything about finishing wood, and I consider him one of the top experts in the field. He keeps on experimenting and researching his field, which keeps him at the top of the list of most informative.

He explains the philosophy well enough that it's easy to follow, and even to take it on your own and extrapolate what would happen if you tried something new. I was fortunate enough to have him sign my copy, Ron, and believe it or not, it doubles the amount of information in it, just as a signature on some pieces increases their worth. 8>)

Doug Trembath

Studio in the Woods