rough spots on turned bowls

My guess is:

Terry Daniel

>You are shearing, not slicing. It is very important that your cutting contact point always be at 45 degrees to the work when using a gouge. Picture the gouge as a handplane. The bevel is the "shoe" of the plane. If you turn the plane to an angle it cuts smoother with less effort; so does the gouge. Shearing tears the wood fibers, slicing does not (usually or minimally). You can always slice but you will need a coach to learn how to do it safely.

TD

Re: rough spots on turned bowls

GaryG in MD

>Art, The rough spots are probably on the end grain (two spots around the diameter), and there may also be some tear out. That's why it won't sand smooth. If you are getting good curls off your gouge, then you should be ok. If you're getting dust, you're probably scraping. Try rotating your gouge clockwise a bit if the flute is vertical (assuming you're right-handed). The flute shoud be around 45 degrees from vertical -- but be careful to keep rubbing the bevel! Good luck. ...Gary

Re: rough spots on turned bowls

Wally Dickerman in Arizona

>Another reason for the rough spots, which are probably end grain tearout. Whenever possible cut with the grain. Cutting against the grain is no different than planing a board in the wrong direction. You'll always get torn grain, because you're cutting unsupported wood fibers.

Learn to shear scrape to clean up all tool marks and torn grain. Do this before sanding. There are dedicated shear scraping tools available, but I usually use a bowl gouge. Position the gouge with the flute facing the wood. Shear scrape with the lower cutting edge, with the upper cutting edge very close to the wood. Do this with the handle pointing well down, and with the handle leading. Always go with the grain. You'll be surprised at how well shear scraping will clean up damaged wood surfaces.

Wally

Re: rough spots on turned bowls

Don Henthorn

>And you can always use sanding sealer, shellac or wipe on poly to help stiffen up the fibers in those spots and then they will often sand down pretty easily. (I hope some day to have a little surplus so I can order Bill's DVD and learn how to turn.)

Re: rough spots on turned bowls

GaryNelson

>As the others said--it is end grain.Some woods are worse than others for this.After you have final sanded and the spots are still there,I take some finish that I am going to use--if it is laquer,then I spray that area well and let dry--then sand well.You could try this with other finishes as well.The finer the sandpaper the less noticable--but it is there.The shear cut is the best--but for a new turner hard to do.Another is to change woods.walnut is the worst.Gary

Re: rough spots on turned bowls

Walter Ahlgrim

>Do you have a bowl gouge? A ruffling or a spindle gouge will give problems.

Do you have a jig to grind your bowl gouge?

Does your grinder have gray wheels?

You could try applying wax to the end grain this often helps.

I try to remember that I should sharpen my gouge just before your final pass weather I think it needs it or not?

When all else fails and it does sometimes I reach for the 60 grit gouge (sand paper)

But the fastest way to improve your turning is to go and get a lesson or two, the next best is to watch a good turner turn.

Is there a club close to you?