Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998
Finishing Natural Edge?
Carole in VA
>Thought I had seen this somewhere on WC, but I guess I didn't hold my mouth right during the search. How do you treat the bark during finshing? If using oil, do you soak the bark as well? Is there someway to stabilize it so it does not chip off with age or when handled? The piece in question is Maple with rough bark if that makes a difference.
Re: Finishing Natural Edge?
Molly Winton
>I just finish the bark the same way I do the rest of the bowl. Because it is more porous it tends to soak up more of the finish, but I've not had any problems. As far as stablizing it, the only time I've found I need to do that is during the turning process, so I don't lose chunks. Then I use a shot of CA. Afterwards, I just treat it carefully when wrapping or packing. The bark is more brittle than the rest of the bowl, obviously, but that's the nature of the beast.
Re: Finishing Natural Edge?
Jerry-Huntsville, AL
>Carole
I just flood the bark with Danish Oil (my finish of choise now), several coats and have been satisfied with the strength and look of the bark. My theory is that the more oil you can get into the bark the stronger it will be when dry. Other factors are the thickness, angle, and type of tree. Dave Barranger at SSS recommended a slightly thicker edge for more strength in the bark as most people pick up a bowl with their hand around the edge. He also said that an angle closer to 90 degrees was stronger. I have one that is very shallow and thin (<.25 in) and it looks fragle, although it hasn' broken yet.
When sanding, you have to be careful with the bark as it is much softer than the wood and I keep the buffing wheel away form the bark for obvious reasons.
Jerry
Re: Finishing Natural Edge?
Jerry-Huntsville, AL
>Correction: It was Dave Barriger. Sorry Dave.
Re: Finishing Natural Edge?
Darryl Hansen
>Carol, I always run a bead of CA just below the bark usually after I have partially hollowed out the bowl. There is usually a very porus layer between the solid wood and the bark. I soak it pretty good. It helps keep the bark on while turning and stiffens the edge afterwards. I use lacquer as a finish and use the glossy stuff on the bark edge. Gives it that oily shine and also the "plastic" finish tends to protect the bark.
Re: Finishing Natural Edge?
John Lucas
>Daryl
That's what I do but I put a layer of finish on first. The CA can run and stain the bowl. If you put a layer of finish on first the run won't show or can be easily sanded away.
Re: Finishing Natural Edge?
Darryl Hansen
>Thanks for the suggestion....
Re: Finishing Natural Edge?
keith zimmerman, Normal IL
>Carole,
When I finishing up a natural edge bowl, I almost always soak the entire rim in CA. Sometimes I even soak the entire bowl in CA. It depends on the wood and how thin the turning is. After it is dry, I hand sand the entire bowl, usually doing the bark with the lathe turned off. I have been using several coats of Minwax Tung Oil Finish followed by Beall buffing as my finish. I do not buff the bark rim. I think the combination of CA and the oil finish makes the natural edge quite strong.
I have also noticed that most people that pick up a natural edged bowl treat it as being much more fragile than a regular rimmed bowl. They seem more to treat it with "kid gloves".
Those are my thoughts and experiences.
keithz
