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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

Poping grain, without the "yellow"

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Poping grain, without the "yellow"

#1

Poping grain, without the "yellow"

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>I know this has been beaten to death in other posts....but I'm back to the same old question....I want to pop the grain in a maple bowl, without getting that yellow tint from oils. There has to be a magic potion out there isn't there?

Please Oh, wise ones.....

Jen :)

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

#2

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

Craig Daymon

>This technique has been described in several woodworking magazines for popping the eyes or curls of figured maple on (typically) flat panels, but it will work for turnings as well.

After sanding to about 220 (flat panel, maybe 320 for a turning - you don't want to go too far to insure the dye will penetrate well), get some TransTint dye (I don't think alcohol or water based matters) in a dark color, typically a dark walnut is chosen. Mix it up and slap it on the piece. Let dry. Sand with 220 (320) to lighten up the surface. The eyes or curls will soak up more of the dye, causing them to "pop". Sand lightly to final and then finish with any clear, non-yellowing finish.

I thought about doing this with a curly maple bowl using a green dye, but chickened out. I think Jeff Jewitt described this technique in Fine Woodworking.

-Craig

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

#3

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

Russ Fairfield

>Sand to 600 grit and give it a coat of Deft lacquer. Wipe off all of the Deft while it is still wet, and they wipe dry with a clean cloth.

Works for me. It pops the grain, seals the grain, and it is ready for either an oil/varnish or more coats of lacquer.

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

#4

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

Steve Worcester

>Are you wanting to highlight the grain without altering the color at all?

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

#5

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

Joel Hunnicutt

>Jennifer, the disclaimer is that I haven't tried this yet. Sherwin-william makes a CAB acrylic that is water white and should pop grain just like NC lacquer. The big downside is that it should be sprayed. I plan on trying it because there are times I don't want the slight amber cast of NC lacquer.

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

#6

Thank you and 1 more ?

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>Russ, so far your method sounds like what I'm looking for. Yes, I'd like to keep it as clear maple looking as possible. What I have done is burned and colored the rim of a bowl and I'd like to keep the colors as true as possible and the maple as white as possible. It's a very light colored piece of maple, but it does have some nice curl in it.

I think I will try Russ's method. Now my next question. Does anybody know if the Deft lacquer will take off the Prisma Markers? I suppose a test run is in order here.

Thanks everybody!

Jen

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

#7

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

Ron in Drums PA

>I must be the only one who likes the yellow of oils for popping the grain. I guess I'm weird.

I find that waterlox does a real nice job in popping the grain and has only a slight yellowing effect.

If I want the grain to really pop I dry sand to 320, apply oil and wipe dry in a minute or so, lightly touch up with 320, then go on up to 2000. Just don't sand though the oil.

The reason for wiping the oil off on a wood like curly maple is simple. There are hard and soft areas which is what causes the curl, the oil will soak quickly into the soft areas and will take a longer to soak in the hard areas. Wiping will remove the the oil before it has a chance to soak into the hard areas. Then sanding to a high grit closes up the pores on the soft areas which almost evens out the ability of the oil to penetrate into the hard and soft areas. Now when you apply your final finish you should have a even penetration of the oils into the woods.

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

#8

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>That makes total sense. Thank you Ron. I'd never heard it explained like that. Not sure if I'll use the oil on this piece, but I will certainly keep this in mind for the next one I oil.

Jennifer

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

#9

Re: Thank you and 1 more ?

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>By all means test first, but if memory servers, Prisma colors are Alchohol based and do just fine with Lacquer. That said, I alway put a coat of Krylon Fix-a-tif on first to seal it.

Mark

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

#10

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

Mike in Fort Walton Beach, FL

>jen, the kind folks teaching me woodturning sent an e-mail to packard woodworks and got a recommendation on something that wouldn't yellow the wood. i'll try to remember to get with them tomorrow and find out what that product was but in the meantime, you can e-mail packard. they may beat my response time :-).

mike in fort walton beach, fl.

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

#11

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

Don Evans

>Please let the rest of us know what their answer is!

Don

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

#12

Re: Poping grain, without the "yellow"

Jorge Castaneda ~ Downeast Maine

>Jen,

I use a tung oil mix 50/50 with naphta, the tung does not yellow like blo. It is funny you don't like the yellow, I must 'fess I sometimes mix an idee bidee amount of yellow dye to the oil mix, for woods with big open pores I use sienna or burn umber.

Jorge

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