Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998
Hollowing Tools
DGD
>I would like to start to turn some hollow forms and am looking to equip myself adequately to do so. There are many hollowing tools out there and I would like to get some idea as to which ones I should invest in. There are the Kelton series of hollowing tools (mini to large), the Rolly Munro Articulated Hollower, as well as the scorpion and stinger sets. I'm sure there are more. What's best to start with and also has some growth potential? Thanks
Re: Hollowing Tools
Dick Hines
>I have 3 sizes of Kelton. Small ,3/8" and 3/4". Also have the captured tool rig and laser system.
LOVE IT.
Re: Hollowing Tools
Bill MacLachlan
>I recently purchased the Stinger & Scorpion and am impressed with them so far. Still learning how to use the larger triangular shaped tool, but the rest work well.
Re: Hollowing Tools
tek-Brunswick, Ohio
>Thanks for reminding me. I've read that also. I need to be a little more patient. I am having fun anyway.
Tom
Sorry wrong message
tek-Brunswick, Ohio
>
Re: Hollowing Tools
Les Robison
>I also have the Scorpion and Stinger. I have never used the Stinger, as yet. I love the Scorp. and use it with my shop built captive system w/ laser as well as by hand with the armbrace. I am a happy user.
Re: Hollowing Tools
ken chase
>I'm new also and chose the Kelton. I'm finding it difficult. It may be the wood I'm working with. I think it's chinaberry. Very dense and hard. My first hollowform broke at the neck. I'm now practicing using the tools on bowls so I can ovserve how the cutters work at different angles. It seems like it's a bumpy ride no matter how I hold the tool. I think it's time to buy a brace.
Ken
Re: Hollowing Tools
Brad Vietje
>DGD -- Look in the archives for a review by Lyn Mangiamelli, and for other posts on this topic -- there are a lot of them. Are you looking at hand-held tools, or a stabilized boring bar system ? Scraping tools, or cutting tools ? This is a pretty broad topic -- I use all of the above, depending on the application.
Safe Spinning,
Brad Vietje
Thetford, VT
Re: Hollowing Tools
DGD
>As the saying goes on TV, I don't know enough to know to know that I don't know! I had always assumed that hollowing was always based upon scraping, not cutting, now I don't know. I would prefer to leave the boring rigs to a later date and get a feel for hollowing out without a rig.
I was leaning towards a Kelton system but have also come across a Oneway system (which seems quite similar in concept) but the latter has replaceable cutters. The response from Ken Chase leaves me a bit concerned about the Kelton system and those based upon the same principle.
DGD
Re: Hollowing Tools
DWFII
>I'm very new, as well. My fourth vessel was a small vase that was sort of a semi-hollowform/vase, you might say.
I purchased the Sorby ...I think it's called the multi-tip (curved neck)...after reading Lyn's articles. I wanted to learn how to do it manually before I went to more complex systems such as captive systems or ring cutters, etc. And it was one-third the price of all the others.
I made the small vase out of wet maple. It was pretty easy to cut with the Sorby. Mind you it wasn't long shavings but I don't think you get that with anything but the ring or hook tools. But the Sorby "hogged" the interior out toot sweet. All I had to do was scrape it to clean up the inside.
Pretty good for a raw beginner. I didn't have any problem controlling the Sorby either if that's a factor in your decision.
Anyway...there's my two cents for the kitty...
DW
In the High Desert of Central Oregon
Re: Hollowing Tools
Carole in VA
>I have the Sorby Hollowmaster and I am having an awful time learning to use it! I don't think it is the tool, I think it's me. I don't have any problem with the round scraper blade that came with it, but that other little skinny dude is giving me fits. Going to give it another go tomorrow on a vessel that has been drying. Got some tips from folks Wednsday night, and am hoping that will help.
Re: Hollowing Tools
DWFII
>Carol,
I don't know for sure if we're talking the same tool (probably) but one thing I did was have John Lea make up a double rod tool rest for my Jet 1014. Because the Sorby has a flat side (the side that rides on the tool rest) having that extra support really helps, I think. I'm not anywhere near being good at this but I kept the point of the cutter (the narrow blade) at the mid line. And...like I said, it just hogged it out.
Maybe I just got lucky (we'll see, I have a tall vase and a true hollow form roughed or in the works) but the worst problem I had was keeping the vessel free of shavings so I could see what I was doing. On the other hand I did have some tearout but shear scraping took care of most of that.
Don't give up most of the hollowing tools (like the Kelton) (excepting the ring and hook tools) seem to work on the same principles.
DW
In the High Desert of Central Oregon
Re: Hollowing Tools
Brad Vietje
>RE: Long Shavings...
If you are hollowing things with larger openings, long shavings are OK, but if you go for small holes and thin walls, long shavings are not what you want -- they are MUCH harder to remove from that little 1/2" hole ! Also, end grain hollow forms tend to make finer shavings and dust, which blows out with a compressor; side grain H.F.'s tend to produce longer shavings (not always good), and more vibration (always bad) because of the alternation between side grain and end grain, twice per revolution.
Safe Spinning,
Brad Vietje
Thetford, VT
Re: Hollowing Tools
Brad Vietje
>Carole,
You'll find that the smaller tips are pretty aggressive, and need to be used with a light touch. It will also help to keep the cutter just above center, and NEVER let it go below center on the inside of a concave surface. Ideally, you'd have the rest a little high, so that even with the tool handle up a few degrees, the tip is still above center. End grain is somewhat easier -- see below.
Safe Spinning,
Brad Vietje
Thetford, VT
