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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

trying to learn

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trying to learn

#1

trying to learn

tek-Brunswick, Ohio

>Call me a glutton for punishment! My last goal was to master the skew chisel. I haven�t quite mastered it, but I have become much better at using it. Thanks to videos by Richard Raffin, Alan Lacer, and Mike Darlow, and also lots of practice. Now I have it in my head, I want to make boxes with screw on lids. I could get a Klien or Baxter jig and do it that way, but NO! I go and order a Sorby hand chaser set with a gauge and a video that tells how to do it. It�s due to arrive by UPS tomorrow. What am I getting myself into now? Do any of you hand chase threads? From what I have read hard dense close gained woods work the best. What reasonably priced woods will work for practice? I have some Hard Maple, some Cherry, a little Osage Orange, some Black locust and some Honey locust. Will some of that work? I�ve also read that the inside threads are more difficult to chase than the male threads. Does the size of the cylinder to be threaded make any difference in the difficulty? Or is a 1� cylinder just as easy to thread as a 3� cylinder? The weatherman is promising me a cold wet weekend in Northern Ohio to work on it.

Re: trying to learn

#2

Re: trying to learn

Doug Trembath

>Well, tek, I can't say from experience, but I think the Honey Locust, if it's anything like the stuff I have turned in the past, might work. You really need some hard, dense wood for hand chased threads, unless you're an afficionado like Fred Holder, or Allan Batty. I'd stick with Boxwood, or Lignum Vitae for my initial tries at it. In fact, I did!

The threading jigs from the likes of Bonnie Klein, et al, will allow you to make acceptable threads in other, less dense timbers, but

African Blackwood, (in addition to the ones I have already cited), has enough strength and integrity to accept hand chased threads. Softer timbers will only lead to exasperation, IMHO and experience. That doesn't mean you shouldn't give them a try, just adjust your expectations to the timber you are using.

Doug Trembath

Studio in the Woods

Re: trying to learn

#3

Re: trying to learn

Ed in No.VA

>I am also learning to hand chase and have found Osage Orange and Holly to work well. both locusts and hard maple should also work. Other softer stuff will work with the addition of ca glue to stiffen them up. Doin't even think of wet wood. I found not much differance in different diameters. I do it without a guage by doing the inside threads first then sizing the outies to fit.

Re: trying to learn

#4

Re: trying to learn

tek-Brunswick, Ohio

>Thanks for the reply. I got a workable set of threads on my first attempt, although there was more chip out than I would like. I�m encouraged! I didn�t think the first attempt would go that well. It was a practice piece that was a cut off from a maple bowl blank. It had been sitting around a while and I though that it was dry. I got it hollowed and threaded. I was working on the outside shape with the two pieces screwed together and the bottom part of the box went oval. In the trash it went. Do you know if Purple Heart threads well? I have some 8/4� Purple Heart. I could make some needle cases out of that.

Re: trying to learn

#5

Re: trying to learn

John K Jordan

>Even with dry wood and no threads I let the box set overnight before making the finishing cuts. I read this tip but can't remember where. If I remember correctly, the hollowing may release internal stresses that can warp the sides even if very dry.

JKJ in East TN

Re: trying to learn

#6

Re: trying to learn

tek-Brunswick, Ohio

>Thanks for reminding me. I've read that also. I need to be a little more patient. I am having fun anyway.

Re: trying to learn

#7

Re: trying to learn

Ruth in So. Cal

>I just read in the latest edition of the UK 'Woodturning' that the person uses regular kitchen oil instead of CA on the wood and then applies as necessaery as they continue to cut the threads.

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