>I bought a half inch bedan some time ago after reading that it was ideal for truing up tenons but I've never been able to master it. I get terrible catches. I can use a skew chisel fair well and I understand the concept of "riding the bevel" but it seems like the grind angle on the bedan...just as it came from the Sorby(?) Works is so steep...I lose it every time.
Can anyone offer any tips on how to use this tool?
>Yes, I was considering turning it into a scraper. I was thinking about re-grinding the bevel angle...like a scraper. Is that what you did?
Of course that begs the question...why buy a bedan in the first place (unless you are a raw recruit, like I was, and liable to fall for every semi-convincing sales pitch)? If it's going to be used as a scraper why not buy a scraper in the first place? Or, a similar question--why not grind it like a scraper and call it...a scraper?
>You don't ride the bevel on a bedan tool. I just sharpen mine, keeping near to the original bevel. When I present the tool to the work, I typically have the rest at about the center of the spindle or a little higher. I keep the tool on the rest and gently let it down. Think of the bedan as a "fat" parting tool. Hope this helps.
>You can use it like a skew, you can use it like a scraper, you can use it upside down, you can use it right side up....just don't try to do all these at the same time.:)
>If you're using the Bedan just as a scraper you're missing out on the real utility of this tool.
Pascal Oudet, who posts on both WOW and Woodcentral, put a nice litte PDF tutorial together on the use of this tool. I have a copy and can provide directly to anyone interested. If you're on WOW goto the link provided.
I like the Bedan. It seams that I can get in tighter with it. I use the tool bevel up. To sharpen I hone the back side with a diamond hone. I figure the tool will last me for the rest of my life. The bedan is my preferred tool for cutting a bead. I will sometimes use it for cutting a recess and shape a dovetail tenon.
I don't think I have ever used the tool with the bevel down. As with a skew you want to be sure and cut with a supported edge.
>One of our club members took a course from Jean Francois Escoulen, the ball and socket off-axis chuck guy, and a strong proponent of the bedan. She said many people get one and try to use it with the bevel down and immediately have a disaster. That's what I did too! After trying the other way, I found it more useful.
That said, I read other articles (including the one by Oudet) and tried again with the bevel down. A little practice and I find both ways useful (for spindle work). When you think of it, it's just a sharp straight edge which differs from a skew, the flat side of a gouge, a scraper or parting tool only in the angle and length of the grind and the presentation suggested by the way it's mounted in the handle. (Note that some people sharpen their scrapers at around 45 deg as well.) Just like using a chisel or gouge in different ways, the bedan can be presented to the work in a variety of ways.
I'm sure one could do most of their spindle turning with the bedan just as another can do most with a skew. For those who insist it is always better for everyone to use one tool over another for a given situation, I wish them well.
(And PS, the bedan may well be the easiest tool to sharpen!)
>Is the bedan presented to the work *at* the mid-line/axis, above the axis, or what? Handle up Oudet talk about having the handle under his armpit)? Handle down (bevel rubbing)
I just don't know what I'm doing wrong...it goes along pretty well for a little while then...BAM!...a terrible catch.
Seems like rubbing the bevel drops the handle way down around my knees (weak grin) and it's hard to keep there.
I've used it bevel up ...like a parting tool...and used it bevel down like a scraper. But dern if I can get it to work without problems, rubbing the bevel.
>But how does it have a supported edge with the bevel up? I've seen others do slick work with it bevel down, but it takes practice, just like the taming of the skew!