3520a Chuck?

Your chainsaw is fine...get a big chuck

Jay in TX (formerly from Ohio)

>Look at the 5 1/2 Vicmarc (VM-120), the Technatool Titan, or the Oneway stronghold. I have the talon and its a good chuck, but I'll get a big chuck with a bigger lathe. I've used the stronghold and big vicmarc, both are very nice but I'd rather have the vicmarc style chuck key. Another to take a look at is 4" Axminster available at craft supply USA, its got a huge array of jaws for any situation you put yourself in, and I here its an excellent chuck for an excellent price. Good luck.

Re: 3520a Chuck?

Bill Howatt

>Oneway says the Talon is good for lathes 16" and under. I have both a Talon and a Stronghold for my 20" General. I actually prefer the Talon most of the time since being smaller it allows me to do more working of the bottom of the bowl while chucked.

Bill

Re: 3520a Chuck?

John Lucas

>I use the small vicmarc and love it. I think it is the 120. I've turned bowls up to 19" using this chuck. I am pretty experienced however and seldom get a catch of any significance. I also tend to be a gentle turner meaning that I don't hog off a lot of material. If you tend to be aggressive I would look at the larger chuck.

Re: 3520a Chuck?

Dick Hines

>Check out the Nova 2 with the 75MM jaws.

Re: 3520a Chuck? *LINK*

MP Wall

>I like the vic 100 chucks that I have on my 3520, if you want to turn bigger things the vic 120 (now called the 5 1/2) is better suited to 14" and over. The 20" bar is fine, but why the skip tooth, been sawing lumber with it? I would get a regular chain for it and just not saw straight down the grain of the wood. be ready to move a lot of shavings with your new lathe, have fun and turn safe.

MP Wall


Craft Supplies vic chuck page

Re: 3520a Chuck?

Fog Tanner

>I have both the 5 1/2" keyed Vicmarc and the Stronghold. My preference is the Vic, has better quality and keying mechanism -IMHO. If there is a woodworking show close to you that has a Craft Suppy booth, you can get a good price on the Vic ($25-30 off the catalog). You might also try Carroll's in Australia. They had the Vic for $270 Aus which works out to $192US (less the 9% GST and after the currency conversion) plus shipping.

Whatever chuck you get you will need several jaw sets besides the standard. I have most of the one for the Stronghold and buy some more for my Vic. The jaws for the Stronghold run around $40-$50 a set and you will need more than the std 2" jaws if you want to turn big bowls. And then there is the small set for the smaller projects. The Jaws for the Vic can be had cheaper, so that is another consideration.

Re: 3520a Chuck?

ken chase

>I chose a Vicmark. The large one. I was disappointed with the screw attachment and woodturner cat. is sending me a different brand screw center they said is superior. One warning! If the faceplate is installed like it was on mine be sure to back out the two set screws before removing or it will damage the threads. You need a 3mm allen wrench, There is nothing in the manual about this. One real weakness in the manual is its lack of detail.

Re: 3520a Chuck?

echo8287

>Thanks to all for the replys!!! So chanisaw is ok and I need a chuck and some jaws. The jaw sizes are different for the size of tenon that you are going to cut,Is that correct? So for a big bowl you need more diameter on the tenon and for something small you'll have a small diameter tenon. Is this correct? Does it come with any jaws? If not, Then if I get 2 sets of jaws what is a good compromise for the 2 sets for a start? Thanks for helping a rookie!,David

Re: 3520a Chuck?

Bill Howatt

>That is correct regarding the jaw sizes. However, there usually is a fair amount of adjustment so you can typically use an intermediate jaw size for a lot of work. Although they vary, most jaws hold best at a diameter close to their minimum opening - they have more gripping surface at that opening but I wouldn't get overly concerned about it.

Chuck packages usually come with a set of the most common size jaws but be sure you find out before you order since chucks can usually be bought as "body only" for people who already have an optional set of jaws.

If you are starting to use a chuck, I would just get the standard jaws that come with it first and then let my needs dictate what size I buy next rather than make a guess. I have 3 sizes for my Stronghold but I use the standard size (#2)and the smaller size (#1) more than the larger #3. If you were turning very large bowls a lot your requirements would be the opposite.

A handy device made out of a piece of hardboard is a Go-NoGo guage for your tenon size. It looks like a crude open-end wrench. One end is cut with a opening the size of the minimum tenon diameter permitted and the other end is cut with the size of the maximum tenon diameter for the particular jaw set.

Bill

Bill, Neat template idea for tenon size!

Clem Wixted

>

Thanks, should also mention

Bill Howatt

>that you shouldn't make the tenon size the absolute minimum with green wood. If the tenon goes noticeably oval because of drying you will want to true it up before re-chucking. If it was already at the minimum you won't have enough tenon to trim away and still fit the same jaws.

Bill

Re: Thanks, should also mention

echo8287

>Bill thank you very much for that reply and those tips. I know I will benefit from them when I get my lathe. I will do as you say and use the jaws that come with it for awhile. I see that you don't want to cut the tenon the smallest size,because it can oval. I saw this on Bill Grumbines video where it is ovaled and he trues it up after it had dried. Thanks for your time and reply,David